tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20600496824746158912024-03-10T01:56:25.020-08:00Adventures of a Young SeamstressSewing, knitting, thrifting, and vintageShannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.comBlogger67125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-61368933162610199432017-06-09T12:08:00.000-07:002017-06-09T12:08:09.475-07:00a summer maxi and a new blogProst from Germany! I started off the summer with two weeks in Berlin, and now I'm living in the much smaller town of Heidelberg, where I'm doing a research internship over the summer. Sadly I had to leave my sewing machine in Montreal, so this blog might be a little quiet this summer! I'm still knitting, but it'll be a little while before that one is finished!<br />
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In the meantime, I've started a travel blog called <a href="http://learningtobelostweb.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">learning to be lost</a>! Ive been doing lots of weekend trips and so far I've been to Prague, Strasbourg and Colmar in France, Bern and Interlaken in Swizterland, and Munich. I'm going to Freiburg in Germany this weekend, and Paris next week! I'm also posting updates on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, so follow me there if you don't already!<br />
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The weather here is beautiful and summery with the occasional thunderstorm - not too different from Montreal, actually!<br />
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I've been wearing my latest make a ton here - a summery maxi dress, the <a href="https://byhandlondon.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/poppy-top-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Poppy dress</a> from By Hand London! I tested the pattern for them and I was super excited that it was a pattern for knits. I live in knits all summer!<br />
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<a href="http://www.thefabricstore.com.au/" target="_blank">The Fabric Store</a> kindly sponsored the testers and provided us with gift cards for fabric. I ordered the most gorgeous emerald green merino wool to make the midi-dress version of Poppy, but sadly due to shipping to Canada and me never being at home to receive a package, I didn't actually get the fabric until a couple of days before the testing deadline. I would still love to make a Poppy dress with it, but I got way to busy with exams and then left for Germany. Maybe in the fall?<br />
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This was intended as my wearable muslin, made out of some inexpensive knit from a local fabric store.<br />
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Note to self: never buy cheap striped knit, because chances are it will be ridiculously off-grain after you wash it.<br />
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Cutting this out and matching stripes was a bit of a nightmare with off-grain fabric and the long pattern pieces. Did I mention that I've never actually matched stripes before and I was sewing on a tight deadline??<br />
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Once it was cut out, though, sewing was very straighforward (and my stripes even matched!). I won't comment on the pattern/instructions/fit much because I haven't had a chance to go over the revised pattern yet (and to be honest, it was a while ago that we tested this so I don't even really remember my comments), but it went together in a couple of hours, easily!<br />
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I chose to hem the neckline rather than adding a neckband, but this probably wasn't the best idea for the maxi. Because of the weight of the maxi, it's stretched quite a bit.<br />
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Come to that, the whole dress has stretched and is now too long for me. Eventually I will learn not to buy cheap fabric.<br />
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I've still worn this dress a ton, both in the spring in Montreal and since coming to Germany. It's such an easy style to throw on, and it can be dressed up or dressed down!<br />
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Also, it's great for traveling since it's knit (read: no ironing and comfy for long bus rides).<br />
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Look, it came with me to Prague! (Check out that <a href="http://learningtobelostweb.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">travel blog</a> I mentioned for more pictures)<br />
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I'll keep this post short and sweet because I need to catch up on said travel blog, and there isn't a whole lot to say about this dress other than how much I love it!<br />
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I'd never actually owned a maxi dress or skirt before and I was super skeptical about whether or not I could pull one off, but I love it!! It's surprisingly flattering, and actually the right length because I made it myself (I did have to take 3-4 inches off though, can't remember exactly).<br />
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That's it for now (and possibly for the summer....?)! Thanks again to the lovely ladies at BHL for asking me to test!!<br />
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Also thanks to <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/135293331@N07/" target="_blank">James </a>for taking these pictures for me! (This was before it got nice in Montreal and we took refuge in the underground city for photos...)<br />
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Bis später!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-22299386502557496542017-04-07T05:00:00.000-07:002017-04-07T17:20:44.646-07:00a life update and a new favourite purple dressHello, world! It's been a while.<br />
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It seems like ages that I last posted, and I guess it was. A lot has happened since then. Last semester was pretty rough - everyone said it would be, but literally nothing could have prepared me for the insane amount of work I had. After making <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/10/meet-alix-70s-dress-of-my-dreams.html" target="_blank">my last dress,</a> I didn't touch my sewing machine for the rest of the semester. I got back into knitting a little by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BNP8HmNl5Y2/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">knitting microbe plushies</a> as a fundraiser!<br />
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This semester, my workload has been a little lighter, but I've still had a lot going on and haven't had much time to sew. I've managed to finish a couple very simple knit dresses, but you know what? I wear a lot of simple knit dresses so that feels like a pretty huge frickin' accomplishment right now.<br />
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In other life updates, I'm going to Germany this summer! I'm mildly freaking out about finding somewhere to stay, applying for visas, and booking tickets, but I have an internship for 3 months at the University of Heidelberg studying Hepatits B virus!<br />
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At the beginning of May, I'll be in Berlin for two weeks for a language course, living with a host family, then I start my internship that goes until mid-August. I'll hopefully spend the last couple weeks of August traveling around other parts of Europe before heading back to Montreal for my last year of undergrad! International sewing friends, hit me up.<br />
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(Actually though, if anyone has friends/family/connections in Germany, especially in or near Heidelberg, I'm desperately looking for a place to stay!!)<br />
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Back to sewing, I made this dress back in January in a random burst of energy for procrastination. I saw that Heather from Closet Case Patterns had released the <a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/ebony-t-shirt-knit-dress-pattern" target="_blank">Ebony Dress and Tee</a>, a flared knit swing dress, and bought it on the spot! I had wanted all summer to draft a pattern like it for myself (which I've actually done already for a friend and I know it really isn't that hard), but I guess I like shiny new patterns because for the first time in ages I actually felt like sewing, and I wanted to act on that while it lasted.<br />
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The same day I bought it, I taped together the pattern, cut out the dress, and sewed most of the dress except topstitching the neckline and hemming, because I didn't have matching thread. It was a pretty quick make considering that I hadn't sewn in months - it probably took me about 4 hours for all this minus hemming.<br />
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The fabric is from <a href="https://oursocialfabric.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Our Social Fabric</a> in Vancouver. My mom brought it for me when she visited Montreal this summer - the perks of having a mom that volunteers at OSF and already has too much fabric! It's a rayon/spandex knit that has nice drape and body, and isn't sheer at all.<br />
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The neckline is somewhere in between the scoop neck and the jewel neck. I thought the scoop neck might be too low, but next time I'll probably just make it as-is.<br />
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I'll be honest, before hemming this, I tried it on and hated it. I didn't bother buying matching thread to hem it and it sat, unhemmed, on my sewing table for 2 weeks and all the energy I suddenly had for sewing pretty much died. I felt like it looked like a maternity dress and was probably the worst possible shape for my body!!<br />
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A couple weeks later, I decided to see what it would look like shorter. I cut 4 inches off and then tried it on, and I loved it! It was pretty much knee-length on me before, which isn't the best look for such a loose fit, lemme tell you. Shorter, though, it's super cute!<br />
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I went out and bought thread and hemmed it the next day, and I've worn it way too much ever since. It's maybe not the most flattering, but it's cute and comfortable and I don't have to worry about it not fitting during periods of excessive stress-eating.<br />
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The fit around the arms isn't perfect - the pattern was actually revised to give the smaller sizes some more room in the arms, but not until after I'd made this one. It's a little snug but I have pretty small arms and shoulders so it's not too bad. It maybe doesn't sit perfectly on my shoulders which gives the hem a bit more of a high-low effect but I kind of like that.<br />
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So tdlr; this is my new favourite dress (sorry <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/10/meet-alix-70s-dress-of-my-dreams.html" target="_blank">Alix</a>)! It's a style I never would have seen myself wearing a year ago but I'm totally in love with it. It's so easy to wear and to dress up or down. I want to make many many more and live in them all summer (in Germany!)<br />
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Thanks to <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/135293331@N07/" target="_blank">James </a>for taking such killer pictures for me! And thanks to this beautiful city for being such a great backdrop. These photos were all taken in Old Port (and yes, I was a little cold!!)<br />
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Until next time xxShannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-37127999342963944892016-10-28T07:22:00.000-07:002016-10-31T16:44:58.553-07:00Meet Alix, the 70's Dress of my DreamsHappy fall, everyone! There are so many things that I love about this time of year, but I've been busy busy busy so this will be the sparknotes version of a blog post so I can get back to studying/finishing sewing my Halloween costume.<br />
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<b>Pattern</b>: the newly released <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/alix-dress-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Alix Dress</a> by By Hand London. They asked me to test and I absolutely fell in love with the design!! I made the mini version with the pleats, in a size 2/6.<br />
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<b>Fabric</b>: Cheapo poly satin that I bought at a local clothing store that was selling off their surplus. I normally hate poly (and still do), but I needed something on short notice and it was inexpensive. The right side is super shiny (as satin tends to be...) but I used the wrong side and I'm obsessed with the rich purple colour. (It also happens to be almost the exact same colour as one of their samples. Great minds think alike?)<br />
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<b>Muslin</b>: I got about halfway through a muslin then realized that I cut the wrong size for the neck yoke, but didn't have time for a new one. The only thing I changed was to raise the neckline a fair bit (I think 1 3/4"), although in retrospect I didn't need to - it was only because I cut the larger size of yoke that it was so low! Next time, I might lower it back down (or at least 1") because I think that might be a little more flattering (but still totally modest).<br />
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<b>Sewing</b>: Sooo I may have delayed starting this until very very close to the deadline in favour of studying for my biochemistry midterm, and by the time I started, everywhere that I could buy thread was closed. I had purple thread, but it was very cheap and nasty thread that my machine really doesn't like, so I used black thread for almost the whole dress. The next morning, I ran out and bought some purple thread to hem the skirt and sew the elastic casings at the wrist.<br />
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I contemplated French seams, but I was short on time so I just serged everything. Once I got partway through, I realized that French seams would have been way too bulky anyways, so I guess that was for the best - it probably saved me a lot of frustration! If I make another one when I have a little more time (like, maybe when I graduate???), I might experiment with bias bound seams. Some of the seams end up enclosed in the yoke and the waist panel, but a lot of them are still exposed.<br />
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I haven't had a chance to compare the tester instructions to the revised ones yet, so I won't comment on the construction at all. It was pretty straightforward, although I definitely had to follow the instructions more closely that I usually would!<br />
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I finished it up with a blind hem with my beautiful blind hem foot - I'm so in love with this thing. As much as I love hand sewing, sometimes I just don't have the time or the patience for it, so it's great to have a machine that does nice blind hems.<br />
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<b>Verdict:</b> Guys, this is the dress of my dreams!! The fit maybe isn't 100% perfect (I need to tweak the area right above the bust), but I absolutely love wearing it and it's perfect for fall. For class/everyday life (so class + the library), I wear it with tights, boots and a jean jacket (plus a scarf and sweater underneath because it's already cold...), but you could definitely dress it up with heels and some nice jewelry. The sleeves are roomy, but in a lightweight fabric, they're not so bulky that you can't wear a sweater, which is nice.<br />
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I've also been obsessed with this scarf this fall - it's Liberty and belonged to my grandma. We found it in its original package in her house, so we think it was probably a gift that she never wore. It's beautiful wool and despite not owning (or liking) much pink, it seems to go with a lot of my clothes!<br />
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I also just realized that I'm wearing my great-grandmother's gloves in these last few photos where I was too cold to take off my jacket! We also found them at my grandma's house, but my mom doesn't fit them so she doesn't think my grandma would have either. I have no idea how old they are, but they were found with a few other pairs that I would say are at least from the 50's, possibly older. They're made in Italy and lined in silk knit and oh my gosh they are amazing to wear.<br />
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So, I think that's it for this dress! I'm completely in love with it and want to make many many more (if I only I had just a little more time...). Thank you to the lovely ladies at BHL for inviting me to test, and thanks to my friend <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/135293331@N07/" target="_blank">James</a> for taking these pictures for me, in spite of the fact that I always seem to choose rainy days for photoshoots!<br />
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Thanks also to this beautiful city for being my backdrop. In spite of the rain when we took these photos, Montreal is gorgeous this time of year!<br />
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And with that, I'm heading back to the library. At least I'm wearing a killer dress!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-34673805554322189042016-08-06T11:26:00.000-07:002016-08-06T11:26:56.374-07:00Pattern Testing: Itch to Stitch Belize ShortsI'd be lying if I said that Montreal hadn't changed me - I've grown a lot and I've had to learn to live on my own in this city. Living here over the summer this year has been a completely different experience for me - but I've definitely had to get used to the heat, and my wardrobe has changed a lot from my past summer wardrobes.<br />
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With buying second-hand and altering old garments, I've managed to put together enough of a wardrobe that works for the heat (and my lab job, where I need to wear long pants), but something I was still missing was shorts. The only pair of shorts that I wear regularly are a pair of hand-me-downs from a friend, and while I love them and wear them all the time, they do occasionally need a break to be washed...<br />
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So, when I saw that Kennis from Itch to Stitch was looking for pattern testers for her Belize Shorts and Skort pattern, I put my name in right away, and I was chosen as a tester!<br />
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The shorts are loose-fitting with an elastic waist, but the front waistband isn't gathered so they're quite flattering. I chose view A, with pleats at the front, and made a size 0. I was in between a size 0 and a size 2 at the waist, but closer to a size 0, and I was smaller than a size 00 at the waist, so I chose the size 0. I cut the elastic the size for the 00 as the instructions recommend, although next time I will actually size down to a 00 or a little smaller at the waist.<br />
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I cut a muslin, and I was really happy with the fit! I didn't have to adjust the crotch curve at all, which is possibly a first for me, so I went ahead and cut into my fabric.<br />
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These don't take very much fabric (about 3/4 of a metre in my size), so I was able to make these out of the leftover fabric from my sleeveless Granville Shirt.<br />
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For the pockets, I used a scrap of black lining, although maybe gray would have been better - I was just in a hurry and that's what I had on hand!<br />
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I followed the directions pretty much exactly until they were finished, but I wanted them a little shorter, so I folded up 1 1/4" cuffs. The hem allowance was <i>just</i> deep enough for this (1 3/4"), but next time I would allow a deeper hem allowance so there's more than 1/2" folded under.<br />
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I also had to shorten the pockets a little, so they didn't poke out. I only shortened them 1/2" because I like deep pockets, but they're only just short enough, so next time I would probably shorten them another 1/2".<br />
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Since it was a test version, I took some photos before turning up the cuffs, and some after! Once the photos were taken, I tacked them in place.<br />
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I also added a line of vertical stitching at the centre back to stop the elastic from rolling in the casing, but this still wasn't quite enough, so I added three lines of horizontal stitching along the whole waistband, to look more like shirring. I really like how this turned out! My fabric has a fair bit of body for a lightweight fabric, so I spaced the lines 3/8" apart, but in something like rayon, you could probably sew them even 1/4" apart.<br />
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All in all, I LOVE these shorts! They have enough ease to me comfortable (and the elastic waist helps!), but they're just fitted enough to be flattering (although having said that, a lot of the testers did size down for a slightly slimmer fit - I went down a half size myself).<br />
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The herringbone chambray pattern looks almost a little like suiting from a distance, so these will be great to dress up or dress down. The linen and the loose fit make these perfect for the hot, humid Montreal summer, but I also think I'll be able to make these work for fall with tights.<br />
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I could also potentially wear these with my Granville shirt if I want to be super matchy-matchy (or I could just pretend it's a romper). I haven't tried this yet but I might just see how it looks!<br />
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This is also the first project that I finished off with a custom label from <a href="https://www.dutchlabelshop.com/" target="_blank">Dutch Label Shop</a> - they contacted me a while back to ask if I'd like some custom labels to try, and of course I said yes! I've always loved the idea of adding labels to my clothes, but I've never gone out of my way to buy them.<br />
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I went with a few different kinds of simple ones, but if you're better with Photoshop than I am, you can also submit a custom design rather than just designing them on their website.<br />
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I'm seriously impressed by the quality and how professional these look. I'm going to love adding them to everything I make from now on! Since they're made-to-order, they do take a little while to arrive (I think I received them about two weeks after ordering, including shipping to Canada), and you do have to order quite a few labels at once (at least 30 for the simple kind), but now I have enough labels that I'll be using them for a very, very long time! They're a really nice finishing touch, and they makes me smile every time I wear these shorts!<br />
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If you'd like some custom labels for yourself, <a href="https://www.dutchlabelshop.com/" target="_blank">Dutch Label Shop</a> has kindly offered a 15% discount to my readers with the code <b>youngseamstress</b>, valid until September 5th. Treat yourself!<br />
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(And a little disclaimer: I received my labels for free, but all opinions are my own, and there are no affiliate links in this post - i.e. I'm not receiving any compensation for posting about them or the discount code. I do really love them though!)<br />
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Another huge thank you to Kennis at Itch to Stitch for asking me to test! I love this pattern and I'll definitely try to make more before the summer is up. They come together so quickly and they're really easy to wear! I might also try view E with the skort.<br />
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(And a second little disclaimer: I received the pattern for free in exchange for feedback, but again, these opinions are my own. I'm so, so happy with this shorts and I kind of want to live in them for the rest of the summer!)<br />
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Hope you're having a nice, sunny weekend! Thanks for reading!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-3503088764879220882016-07-16T09:40:00.002-07:002016-07-16T14:27:10.324-07:00New Hair + My Linen Granville ShirtYou know that feeling when you make something, and it actually turns out <i>exactly</i> how you pictured it and then you're convinced that you have the perfect piece of clothing that you would wear every single day if you could get away with it??<br />
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Well, meet my <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/granville-shirt/" target="_blank">Granville Shirt</a>! I made this a couple weeks ago and I'm so incredibly happy with it that I want to make hundreds more of these and completely would if I had the time.<br />
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Also, you might have noticed that I dyed my hair! If you follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a> or if you saw my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/06/me-made-may-2016-end.html" target="_blank">Me-Made-May round-up</a>, you probably know that I've actually had red hair for a few months now. When <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEv9vUrqJOo/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">I first dyed it</a> I used a kit (and a friend!), and it was right after my exams when I felt like I really needed a big change.<br />
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It was a little impulsive (not really like me!) and I was happy with how it turned out, but I realized that I maybe had a little too much hair to dye with a drugstore kit. Just last weekend, I had it done by a hairstyling student for a great price (less than I spent on drugstore dye!) and I'm SO happy with it. I love my natural colour but I'm ready to have fun with some different colours!<br />
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Anyways, back to the shirt!<br />
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It seems like a classic shirt has been on my sewing bucket list foreeever, and when Sewaholic released their <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/granville-shirt/" target="_blank">Granville Shirt</a> pattern last year, it seemed like it really was the perfect shirt! It has the perfect amount of ease and all the right details. Sewaholic patterns usually fit me pretty well, too, so it seemed like a great starting point.<br />
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When I made the muslin, though, it <i>really </i>needed some work. I don't have pictures, but the dart was completely in the wrong place for me, and the armholes were gaping like crazy, even after making the <a href="http://sewaholic.net/blue-floral-sleeveless-granville-shirt/" target="_blank">same alterations that Tasia made</a> to make it sleeveless! It was also way too long, almost a tunic length, and big at the hips (although I expected that based on the sizing). I shortened it 4", but I ignored the shorten/lengthen lines because I needed the shaping at the waist to be higher. I cut two separate lines, one above the waist and one below, and shortened it 2" at each of them. To take it in at the hips, I just marked 1" in and drew a smooth curve to that point from the waist.<br />
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To make it sleeveless, you have to shave a little off the armholes and the shirt back where it attaches to the yoke - <a href="http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/05/22/archer-variation-no-1/" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> explains it well. Tasia says she took the armholes in 1" and took 3/8" out of the back, but this wasn't nearly enough for me. I haven't made the shirt with sleeves, so I think I probably would have had to take in the shoulder and the back anyways - that's a pretty standard adjustment for me. In the end I took 1 3/4" out of the shoulder and 7/8" out of the back pieces.<br />
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For the dart, I started by raising it 1", but I needed to do something to fix the armhole gape. One of these days, I should probably learn to do a proper FBA, but I don't like how every tutorial I've seen ends up making the rest of the top wider at the bottom. Instead, I followed <a href="http://assets.burdastyle.com/pdf_files/assets/000/191/731/get-rid-of-a-gaping-armhole_original.pdf?1309472711" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> on how to stop armhole gape - you basically pin a dart in the armhole where you would need it, and then transfer it to the bust dart. It basically doubled the size of the dart, and it worked really well to fix the gaping!<br />
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I made a second muslin with all these adjustments, and it was a lot closer, but there was still a little gaping in the back of the armhole. I considered doing the same thing with pinning a dart and somehow transferring it to the princess seams in the back, but <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice" target="_blank">this article</a> said to just take a little out of the side seam for the back piece only so I did that for my final version. This also worked really well, although it made it just a tiny bit too small at the bust so I might try to add that back in somewhere for my next version. I didn't notice it at first, but after a little wear, the button band pulls ever so slightly at the bust.<br />
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Other than that, though, can we just admire the fit? I think I pretty much nailed it! There's a couple small things I'll change next time, but it's probably the best fitting shirt I've ever owned. It's a little wrinkled in these photos because I'd been wearing it all day, but that's just the nature of linen.<br />
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The fabric is a linen blend herringbone chambray that I bought on St. Hubert at the beginning of the summer. It was only $10 a metre and I got the whole top out of only a metre! Now I just need to figure out what to do with the metre I have left...<br />
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I've never made a classic shirt before, but it wasn't as difficult as I was expecting. I was mostly nervous for the collar stand but I followed <a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.ca/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html" target="_blank">Andrea's famous tutorial</a> for sewing one and it went quite well! The only problem was that something must have stretched (or I just didn't cut it accurately enough in the first place), because I found the collar to be a little too long for the collar stand. I noticed it early on but somehow thought it would work itself out, so I didn't trim it down. It's mostly fine, but if I ever want to button it up all the way (which I never do), the collar overlaps slightly.<br />
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I also made a mistake and interfaced both the upper and lower collar by accident, because I wrote "Cut 2 interfacing" on the collar piece when I traced it. I keep meaning to check if this was my mistake or something on the pattern itself. It's not a big deal because the interfacing I used was pretty lightweight, but it would probably sit a little more nicely with slightly less.<br />
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As for the rest of the construction, I used flat-felled seams for everything so the insides are nice and neat.<br />
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To finish the armholes, I used store-bought bias binding because I was lazy and just sewed it with a 1/4" seam allowance, folded it over the raw edge, pressed it to the inside, and edgestitched. Easy peasy! I think the bias binding I used was maybe a little too stiff for the fabric (I think it's mostly poly), because it didn't stretch to the curve as nicely as a softer one would, and the edges don't quite lay flat. I don't think it's that noticeable, but next time I'll make my own. In fact I think I may just buy some black and white cotton and make a bunch of my own so I have a stock for times like this! The homemade stuff is so much nicer, even if it's not in matching fabric.<br />
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I used my machine's automatic buttonhole foot to make the buttonholes, and I can't get over how beautiful they are. This is probably one of my favorite features of this machine, because I've always struggled with making nice buttonholes. The only one that was a little wonky was the one at the very top because I don't think I trimmed down the seam allowance enough when I attached the collar, so there was a little too much bulk to make a smooth buttonhole. In the end, I just didn't cut it open because I'm never going to button up that button anyways!<br />
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I'm so, so happy with how this shirt turned out. It's a great summer style for throwing on over jeans or these rayon Value Village pants that I've been living in. It's so cool and comfortable for the Montreal heat, too! I've already worn it so much and I want to make more. In the fall I might try a version with sleeves, although sleeveless versions are almost more practical for layering cardigans over!<br />
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Next up, I'd love to make a shirtdress version! Stay tuned...Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-20805534951978707202016-06-17T15:55:00.001-07:002016-06-27T12:44:26.883-07:00The Little Black BraI guess I'm very late to the <a href="http://shop.clothhabit.com/products/watson-bra-bikini" target="_blank">Watson bra</a> party - I saw so many versions last summer, but I was far too busy with other sewing to have time to make a bra. I was also more interested in making a classic underwired bra, and working up to making foam-cup bras. Now, though, constantly changing bra sizes and being fed up with uncomfortable wired bras has made me crave comfy yet cute bras like the Watson.<br />
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I've always had trouble finding bras that fit, and although I finally had some in high school, I lost some weight in first year, and I've been slowly gaining it back over the course of the year. After losing all the weight, I bought a couple new bras, only to have them not fit anymore after gaining the weight back! For a while, I wore my old bras from high school, but they're old enough that the bands are super stretched out of shape.</div>
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So, some better-fitting, comfortable bras were definitely in order! Enter the Watson bra. </div>
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This one was intended as a wearable muslin, because the fabric was a remnant that I bought on St. Hubert for $2, and I didn't have all the notions that I needed. I had the elastics for the top and bottom, but I couldn't find black strapping, or a 3-row hook and eye. </div>
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Because of this, I modified the pattern to just pull over my head, and I made non-adjustable fabric straps. This worked pretty well, although for my next one, I'm going to try to find the proper notions!</div>
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I wasn't sure what size to make (like my last bra), since the directions are for measuring your underbust and full bust to choosing your size. I wear a 28E in my RTW bras, but measuring this way gives me a completely different size. In the end I just went with a 30D, which is the smallest band size the pattern offers, but an equivalent cup size to what I've been wearing. I'd say the fit it pretty much spot on!<br />
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To make it pullover, I cut the back pattern piece on the fold about 1" away to compensate for not having a hook and eye there.<br />
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For the straps, I made a strip 1 1/2" wide and serged the edges together with a 1/4" seam allowance to give a 1/2" strap. I made it about 30" long, but cut a good 10" off. When I attached it, I attached it to the back first, then pinned them at a good place in the front. They seem pretty solid, so I don't think they'll stretch out too much, but I think for my next one, I'll definitely get some proper strapping. These are a little bulky, especially where they attach to the cups.<br />
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Amy suggests using powernet for the band and either lining or interfacing the cradle, but I could only find beige powernet. Instead, I used a double layer of the main fabric and for the cradle, I sandwiched a single layer of powernet in between. I think this gave it the perfect stability, although it's maybe a little bulkier than ideal, and the beige powernet shows a little at the seams. I may have to get out my sharpie...<br />
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As for the rest of the construction, I followed the instructions and used a stretch stitch on my machine (a new stitch for me!) for both the seams and the topstitching. I love that there are exact widths and lengths included in the instructions for attaching the elastic, because a "medium width zigzag" means something different to everyone!<br />
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Overall, I had this bra put together in an afternoon, from cutting to finishing. It's definitely not my best sewing - you may have noticed the wonky stitching along the bottom elastic where my bobbin thread ran out and I started again. I found that the double layer of ponte folded over, plus elastic, was too bulky to nicely fit under my walking foot so I accidentally started it on a bit of an angle. I didn't really want to rip out a triple-step zigzag (backstitched) in a knit, and this was a wearable muslin anyways, so I left it. If I had known how well this would turn out I might have tried to fix it!<br />
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All in all, I LOVE this bra! It's so comfortable, and still really supportive and cute. Unfortunately the elastics that I used weren't the best quality and the edges have already started to stretch out a bit... I also could have probably stretched them more as I sewed them. For next time, though, I've ordered a ridiculous amount of elastic and lingerie elastics from Bra-Makers Supply to stock up. I should be set for another 10 or so bras...<br />
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And yes, there will definitely be more! Don't say I didn't warn you...</div>
Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-73781565536608236072016-06-10T14:54:00.002-07:002016-06-10T14:54:31.221-07:00Me-Made-May 2016: The End?Am I the only one who went to take yet another mirror selfie on June 1st, before realizing that is wasn't Me-Made-May anymore??<br />
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Despite easing up on <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/04/me-made-may-2016-why-im-cutting-back.html" target="_blank">my Me-Made-May goals</a> a little this year, I actually did manage to wear something I made every day, and documented it on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram </a>rather than doing a weekly blog post. I missed a couple days, but all those days I was wearing an repeat outfit anyways!<br />
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These are some of my favourites - but you can see them all on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>!<br />
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My main (vague) goal was to find more ways to work my me-mades into my wardrobe, especially my wardrobe for working in the lab. I thought about this a lot, and I did find some new ways to wear things!<br />
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This Pendrell blouse that I made from vintage fabric (that belonged to my great-grandma!) has sat unworn for a very long because it just felt too over-the-top cutesy, but with these casual linen shorts that my friend passed on to me (rather than a full skirt), it dresses it down and feels way more wearable!<br />
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Another top that I played with some new ways to wear was my recent <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/05/pattern-testing-bhl-sarah-shirt.html" target="_blank">Sarah Shirt</a>, which I love, but maybe isn't the most flattering on me. I realized that I really like wearing it open, though! The top is buttoned in this photo to stop it blowing open on my bike, but I later unbuttoned it. Worn over a tank top, it's still swingy and fun but not quite as overwhelming on my small frame!<br />
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That said, I definitely fell back on a few favourites when I didn't really want to think about putting an outfit together. My most worn piece was definitely my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/sosm-round-1-sutton-blouse.html" target="_blank">Sutton blouse</a> (on the left below), which didn't surprise me at all! I wore it at least four times (one undocumented), and I may have even worn it on a fifth day that I also forgot to take a picture of. It's the perfect top to just throw on over jeans, or tuck into a skirt, and it can be dressed up or down!<br />
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It's funny, because the only reason I made that pattern was because it was chosen for me as part of the Super Online Sewing Match! I never would have picked it out on my own, but I wear it so often and really should make another.<br />
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As for my other goals, I wanted to finish my alterations, focus on wearing and making (or planning to make) separates, and learn to copy patterns.<br />
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So... I sort of achieved those. I did get through a few alterations, but I still have quite a few to go. I shortened both my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/completed-colette-moneta-dress-60s-style.html" target="_blank">floral Moneta dress</a> and my p<a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/03/out-with-old-or-long-overdue-photo-dump.html" target="_blank">urple Peter Pan collar Moneta dress</a>, which makes them both a little more wearable somehow. I wore both a couple times, and I also realized that I can wear my floral boatneck backwards to make into a scoopneck, which makes it a little less dressy! Here I wore it for a picnic in the park, with my wool <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/11/completed-wool-muse-jenna-cardi.html" target="_blank">Jenna cardi</a> because it was still a little cool that day.<br />
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I definitely focused on wearing separates for the lab, because I have to wear pants for safety and practicality. I wore skirts with tights at the beginning of May when it was cool, but I hate wearing tights in hot weather!<br />
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(Quick side note: another piece that I never would have imagined that I would wear so much is the denim jacket I'm wearing above! I bought it second-hand from a Facebook group where McGill students buy and sell clothes, and it seems to go with everything I own. It's a perfect spring or summer jacket, and great for dressing down some of my old clothes! Not me-made, but I know that if I ever make a denim jacket, I'll wear it tons.)<br />
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Lastly, I wanted to learn to copy patterns and draft some simple ones! I'm still working on this - I have a couple patterns that I've copied, but I haven't made them yet so I still don't know how good a job I did....<br />
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Overall, I can't say I actually learned a ton from Me-Made-May this year that I didn't know already. I learned that I'm much more drawn to loose, more casual shapes now, but I knew that already. I also figured out some new ways to wear old pieces that I haven't worn in a long time, which was something I've been trying to do for ages and this gave me a bit of a push to actually do it!<br />
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On the other hand, I'm realizing now that there were a lot of pieces I never wore once, like my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-denim-hollyburn-skirt.html" target="_blank">denim Hollyburn skirt</a> (even after shortening it, I feel like I'm 7 years old when I wear it!), both pairs of Smooth Sailing Trousers (<a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/05/guest-post-smooth-sailing-trousers.html" target="_blank">my black pair </a>needs re-hemming after stretching, and <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/09/completed-smooth-sailing-trousers-take.html" target="_blank">my teal pair</a>... I just never really reach for them, I guess), my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2013/09/completed-simplicity-7148-experimental.html" target="_blank">linen culottes</a> and my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-colette-moneta-dress-with-tie.html" target="_blank">green Moneta dress</a> (these I forgot to unpack when the weather got nice - I actually do wear them in the summer!), my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-sewaholic-davie-dress-perfect.html" target="_blank">Davie dress</a>, and my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-muse-natalie-dress.html" target="_blank">Natalie dress</a> (both of these were great work dresses last summer, but just don't feel like they're my style anymore!).<br />
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Some other pieces that are still in my mending pile are both my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/search/label/cambie" target="_blank">Cambie dresses</a> (to shorten), my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/03/out-with-old-or-long-overdue-photo-dump.html" target="_blank">picnic blanket skirt</a> (also to shorten), the top from my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-miz-mozelle-2-piece-set.html" target="_blank">Miz Mozelle set</a>, and some other thrifted pieces.<br />
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I thought that I would finish this post and feel like I'd gotten somewhere or had some sort of revelation about my handmade wardrobe, but I'm not sure I learned that much that I hadn't figured out already. My wardrobe is definitely in a bit of a transition state, and that's okay! I'm figuring out what works for me and my lifestyle right now, and filling some gaps both with sewing and thrifting.<br />
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The main gaps are practical, comfortable pants; loose, casual tops that I can wear for summer and layer over in the winter; and basically anything that doesn't make me feel like I'm five!<br />
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So, this wasn't exactly the insightful post that I thought it would be, but nonetheless, I had fun participating in Me-Made-May, even though I got a little sick of all the selfies by the end!<br />
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How about you? if you participated this year, did you find any gaps in your wardrobe, or learn anything new about your style!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-84662486621095990272016-05-23T06:00:00.000-07:002016-06-02T07:00:31.734-07:00#OOTD Sew and Style - Review + Giveaway!As someone who got into sewing in their teens, I'm all for anything that encourages young people to start sewing their own clothes! Back at my high school, everyone takes half a term of sewing, and they make a pincushion, a stuffed frog, and a pair of boxer shorts... which doesn't exactly make most people want to keep sewing. Making clothing that you actually wear and love is so more fun!<br />
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That's exactly the idea behind the new sewing book <a href="http://www.ctpub.com/ootd-outfit-of-the-day-sew-style/" target="_blank">#OOTD (Outfit of the Day) Sew and Style</a>, by Angela Lan. Today, I'm excited to be hosting the a stop on the blog tour for the book, including a giveaway at the end of this post!<br />
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<a href="http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-dvzvde/3l9ek/product_images/uploaded_images/11135-lan-newfrontcover.-18210.1443808803.1104.1280.jpg?t=1463415949" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/n-dvzvde/3l9ek/product_images/uploaded_images/11135-lan-newfrontcover.-18210.1443808803.1104.1280.jpg?t=1463415949" height="640" width="512" /></a></div>
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What impressed me most when I learned about the book is that Angela is only 14 years old, and already writes her own blog at <a href="http://lovespunk.com/">LoveSpunk.com</a>! She's mostly self-taught, and was inspired to write the book because when she was learning, she found there was a lack of sewing books for young girls that focus on sewing clothing rather than other crafty projects.<br />
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The book is aimed at young teenagers and tweens that are interested in clothing design, so the emphasis is a little different than other beginner sewing books that I've seen. I liked that in her introduction, Angela focuses on sewing wearable, everyday clothing and finding ways to make it your own - that's exactly what I'm trying to focus on with my sewing right now, even though I've been sewing for years! </div>
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There's a great introduction to different types of fabric and what to look for when fabric shopping, as well as a helpful guide to reading a sewing pattern. The sewing details are concise, and enough to get started with the included projects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wH_uZz6fKAiI3yo53ETnVwocxZazqYpWtiBH9EK7fSsko7W5EW0-iwj5WoXlt289iR4HiTksPwupznjBYjWuj3eLXb-J43J_JLoawt0s1TMTSYh-cCaOJNoCWa-RClK_0SWFD_5qgA8/s1600/11135_030_set.tif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wH_uZz6fKAiI3yo53ETnVwocxZazqYpWtiBH9EK7fSsko7W5EW0-iwj5WoXlt289iR4HiTksPwupznjBYjWuj3eLXb-J43J_JLoawt0s1TMTSYh-cCaOJNoCWa-RClK_0SWFD_5qgA8/s640/11135_030_set.tif" width="426" /></a></div>
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As you go through the book, Angela introduces some new techniques that are needed for the projects, and along the way, she talks about sewing to fit your style and create unique clothing, and introduces a few pattern modifications for the included projects.<br />
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The projects are all pretty simple and perfect for a beginner! They get more complex as you go through the book, starting with an infinity scarf, and ending with a pair of shorts that can be lengthened to pants. Most of them, with the exception of the pants, don't require many more skills than sewing and finishing straight seams. The pants would definitely be a project to work up to, but mostly because they would be trickier to fit! The construction itself looks quite straightforward.<br />
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Overall, I think that this book would be perfect for a tween or teen that wants to start sewing clothing rather than those classic beginner projects like pillowslips and pincushions! Everything is explained clearly and simplified just enough to make the projects very do-able for someone younger. It doesn't include many techniques other than what's needed for the projects, but it's a perfect starting point to build upon if you worked through the projects and wanted to learn more, either from the Internet, from a course, or from another book.<br />
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So, now for the giveaway! C&T Publishing has kindly offered a copy to give away to a reader (a paper copy if you're in the US, and an e-book otherwise). <strike>To enter, leave a comment with an email address, and I'll keep it open until Monday, May 30 at mighnight, EST.</strike> <b>Edit: giveaway is now closed. </b><br />
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Following me (on <a href="https://www.bloglovin.com/blogs/adventures-a-young-seamstress-10479349" target="_blank">Bloglovin</a>, <a href="https://feedly.com/i/subscription/feed/http://youngseamstress.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default" target="_blank">Feedly</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, or anything else) is appreciated but not necessary to enter!</div>
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Also, check out the other stops on the blog tour for more posts (and more chances to win!):<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; white-space: pre-wrap;">May 17: </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Angela Lan posting on</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> <span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">the <a href="http://ctpub.com/blog" target="_blank">C&T Publishing blog</a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 18: Marte Lambin at </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">the <a href="http://compagnie-m.com/" target="_blank">Compagnie M blog</a></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 19: Sasha Werner<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">at <a href="http://secondopiano.space/" target="_blank">Secondo Piano </a></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 20: Barbara Emodi at</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> <a href="http://sewingontheedge.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sewing on the Edge</a></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 23: Me!</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 24: Suzannah Stanley at</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> <a href="http://create-enjoy.com/" target="_blank">Create/Enjoy</a></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">May 25: Angela Lan posting at </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="http://lovespunk.com/" target="_blank">LoveSpunk</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">And finally, a little disclaimer: I was given a free copy of the e-book for the purposes of this tour, but all opinions are my own. As a fellow teenage seamstress (for another couple months, anyways), I think that this book really would be a great introduction to sewing for a tween or young teen. I would have loved it when I was that age, and I probably would have started sewing seriously a lot sooner!</span></div>
Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-84217928564284004542016-05-12T17:22:00.002-07:002016-05-13T09:37:56.703-07:00Pattern Testing: The BHL Sarah ShirtIf you follow the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london" target="_blank">By Hand London blog</a>, you may have seen that I was included in their round-up of <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/blogs/by-hand-london/76143493-the-sarah-shirt-pattern-tester-versions" target="_blank">pattern tester versions</a> of their new pattern, the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/sarah-shirt-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Sarah Shirt</a>! I was so flattered and excited when they asked me to test earlier this year, and it was perfect timing, because I was just starting second semester and not (too) busy with school yet. I'm definitely starting to embrace some looser, more casual styles, and I fell in love with the line drawings!<br />
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Having said that, my secret shame at that time was that I <i>still</i> hadn't bought a table to set up <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/an-exciting-end-to-summer.html" target="_blank">my new sewing machines</a>, and I hadn't tried either of them yet! So, for that week, I took over our kitchen table at our apartment and <i>finally</i> used my brand new sewing machine machine for the first time.<br />
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Aaaand... it's <i>amazing!</i> It handled the drapey rayon so nicely (although the walking foot helped!), and the automatic buttonhole feature is just beautiful. Having only ever sewed on either a cheap machine or a machine that's 30+ years old, it was incredible to sew on such a high-end machine! I feel like this will be the start of a long, happy relationship. Now it just needs a name...<br />
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The fabric was from a place on St. Hubert, one of Montreal's fabric shopping districts. It's super cheap rayon and I don't know how well it will last, but I was a little pressed for time and didn't want to spend a ton of money on a shirt that I wasn't sure would turn out. This was only $3 a yard, so I bought lots, and I have enough left for a dress! I really like the pattern so I may whip up something simple with what's left - since it's not the best quality I wouldn't want to make anything super complicated with it. I bought the Sewaholic <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/nicola-dress/" target="_blank">Nicola Dress</a> pattern a while back and I might use it for a wearable muslin. We'll see!<br />
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As for the Sarah shirt, I made a size 2/6, view 2 (short sleeves, and a pointed collar). I also love the long sleeves, but I didn't think they would be that practical for me. I'm always cold, so I never end up wearing shirts that I can't layer a sweater over!<br />
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I'm not going to comment too much on the instructions, since I know that the ladies at <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/" target="_blank">By Hand London</a> made quite a few changes in response to testers' feedback. The revised instructions have clarified a few points, and they're detailed enough that they're really easy to follow, even if you've never made a shirt before!<br />
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Since our kitchen table only had enough space for one sewing machine, I didn't set up my serger for this project, and instead finished everything with French seams. This is definitely my favourite seam finish for delicate fabrics, and it worked really well for this pattern, even the sleeves!<br />
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As for the fit, this one has a LOT of ease! It's intentional (unlike the Big 4, which add unnecessary easy to everything), but I thought that it ended up a little bigger than the line drawings suggested. The illustrations on the model show the ease a little more accurately, but they weren't done yet when I tested it!<br />
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I love the swingy-ness of the style, but I'll admit that I'm not sure it's the most flattering on me. I've seen lots of versions that look fabulous, but I just have a very small frame, and I think that the ease is a little overwhelming on me. The smallest size fits my full bust and waist measurements, but I think my high bust measurement better reflect the size of my frame, so I maybe should have sized down past the smallest size!<br />
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Having said that, I think it's a really fun style to wear! As I mentioned earlier, I've really started to like styles that are less fitted (even if they're not the most flattering on my body).<br />
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I think that if I made this again, I might make it a tiny bit more fitted under the arms and then begin the flare from there, possibly adding a bust dart. I think that on me, this might make the ease a little less overwhelming - I have a thrifted blouse that fits like this that I love!<br />
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I shortened it by 2", which wasn't unexpected because I'm a little short (5' 2", for reference).<br />
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The other alteration that I would make if I made it again would be to make the collar a little smaller. I'm not sure if it's just because I made the smallest size and the collar size doesn't change much from size to size, but I found the collar a little disproportionately big, and definitely larger than the line drawings suggest - it actually covers the pleats completely, which is too bad because they're my favourite part!<br />
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So, the final verdict on this shirt?<br />
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Looking at these photos, I LOVE it!<br />
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But, as much as I like it, it's definitely a stretch from styles I've worn before. I feel like I still need to just get a little more comfortable wearing it - I have a few pieces that I've bought second-hand that I loved, but were very different than the styles I was used to, and I needed to wear them a few times before I got used to the different style.<br />
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I really hope that I get some more wear out of it, because really do like it! I think with a couple tweaks I will definitely make the pattern again, and then maybe I'll find it a little more wearable.<br />
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Oh, and in case you're wondering, I have actually set up a sewing space for myself in my bedroom! It still needs a little work but it'll evolve as I use it. So far my work schedule has been a little unpredictable, but I hope to have some more sewing time this summer than I had during the school year. It looks like I'll definitely have some knitting time if I keep a knitting project at the lab - lab work involves a lot of waiting!<br />
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Also, another huge thank you to my friend <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/" target="_blank">James </a>for taking these photos for me - these were taken before <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2016/05/the-aiken-pullover-just-in-time-for.html" target="_blank">it started pouring</a>!<br />
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And, a final little disclaimer: I was given the test version (and later the revised version) of the pattern free of charge in return for my feedback as a tester. I paid for the supplies and for printing the pattern myself, and I was in no way obligated to post about it. All opinions are my own!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-80573886372469586562016-05-07T06:00:00.000-07:002016-05-07T06:00:31.538-07:00The Aiken Pullover... Just in Time for Summer!If you've been following my Me-Made-May 2016 pictures on Instagram, you might have seen that I wore a new handknit sweater on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BE41oXEqJBk/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">day 1</a>! It's not actually that new - I finished it in January but it took me a while to get photos taken.<br />
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This is my second handknit sweater, and I'm SO happy with it! It's the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aiken" target="_blank">Aiken sweater</a> by Andi Satterlund - a fitted pullover with a beautiful lace detail at the neck. I wish we had a chance to get some close-up photos of the lace, but a thunderstorm came along just as we started taking pictures so we finished up pretty quickly!<br />
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I started this project pretty much right after finishing <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/04/completed-knit-marion-cardigan.html" target="_blank">my Marion cardigan</a>, in February last year! It went pretty quickly at first, and I had the body finished in a couple of months. It just took me forever to knit the sleeves! I barely knit at all over the summer because I was focusing entirely on work and sewing for the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/search/label/super%20online%20sewing%20match" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>, and then I really struggled to find time for knitting during first semester. After finishing up knitting some Christmas presents, I worked on this a lot over Christmas break, and finished up early in January.<br />
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It wasn't a difficult knit - like most of Andi Satterlund's patterns, it's knit mostly in stockinette from worsted weight wool, so it goes really quickly, once you actually make the time to knit! I had never done any lace before, but I picked it up pretty quickly and the pattern wasn't difficult to keep track of. Once you get past the lace, it's just knitting in stockinette in a circle with decreases every few rows. Great mindless knitting!<br />
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The wool is Malabrigo twist, a gorgeous merino in the colourway 'Velvet Grapes'. It was on sale at a store that was closing in Canmore, when we visited the summer before I worked there. I love Malabrigo, but it's pricey at regular price, especially if you buy enough for a sweater, so this was a great find! I bought 6 skeins, which was everything she had left, but I only used 5. I'll have to use the rest for a cozy scarf or something in the fall!<br />
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Malabrigo doesn't give a very specific gauge for their wool, so I tried a couple swatches with different size needles to see what I liked the texture of. Using 5 mm needles as suggested gave me the texture I wanted (thick, and therefore warm!), but the gauge was a little tighter than recommended. If I went up a needle size, it wasn't as thick as I wanted it, so instead, I took a bit of a gamble and just made a size larger than I normally would (small rather than extra small). I know that this probably isn't the best way to adjust, but it worked really well in this case! I don't think there's anything I would change about the fit.<br />
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I think the only thing I would change if I made this again would be to knit the ribbing on a size smaller needles - I know that a lot of patterns have you do this, and I'm not sure why hers never recommend it (maybe it's assumed?). I think I'd prefer the look of a slightly tighter rib, especially at the sleeves.<br />
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The trickiest part of knitting the sweater was trying to prevent striping! Since the yarn is hand-dyed, I alternated skeins throughout the whole sweater (except for the short rows at the sleeve head), but I still had some striping, so I had to keep cutting the wool and trying to start using it again when it was a different colour. It took me a good few rows to finally stop the stripes, but I think they're only noticeable to me (?).<br />
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This also meant that when I was finished knitting, I had SO MANY ends to weave in. I don't like weaving in ends much (who does?), so it took me at least another week to finally finish up after I was done knitting!<br />
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Overall, though I'm SO proud of this sweater! I love the lace details - it's subtle, although a little more noticeable in real life! It's also so warm and cozy, and I wear it lots, even now that it's May! It's finally warmed up a little, but the first week was pretty chilly for May.<br />
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Also, thanks to my friend <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/135293331@N07/" target="_blank">James </a>for taking these photos for me! I think this one was taken just before we decided it was time to head inside...<br />
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<br />Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-35057836729983511222016-04-30T11:28:00.000-07:002016-05-01T20:15:19.129-07:00Me-Made-May 2016: Why I'm Cutting Back This YearHello again! I feel like I'm slowly emerging from the cave that is the library and finals and getting used to seeing some light again.<br />
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I've also realized that every single time I post, I say that it's been forever and I will hopefully have something else up on the blog soon... but I've just had possibly the craziest, most stressful few weeks of university so far and blogging hasn't exactly been a top priority.<br />
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But... I'm now done! I had my last exam Monday morning, and I've been spending some quality time relaxing, catching up with friends, cleaning my apartment, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEv9vUrqJOo/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">spontaneously dying my hair red</a>! I've also FINALLY been doing some sewing (including finishing my Ginger jeans and then having <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyrcXdKJHE/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">a little mishap</a> the first time I wore them...)<br />
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I actually have a few blog posts lined up right now, but I'm going to take a little aside to talk about <a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.ca/2016/04/me-made-may-16-sign-up-here.html" target="_blank">Me-Made-May</a>!<br />
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The past two years, I've loved participating in MMM! <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/search/label/me-made-may%202014" target="_blank">Two years ago</a>, it was a great challenge and a fun way to find the gaps in my wardrobe.<br />
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<a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/search/label/me-made-may%202015" target="_blank">Last year</a>, it was actually quite easy because I was already wearing me-mades almost every day!<br />
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However, I'm actually stepping it down a little this year, for a few reasons:<br />
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<b>1. I have a job working in a lab!</b><br />
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I've mentioned before that I've been volunteering in an immunology lab this year, and in the spring, I was awarded a SURA (Science Undergraduate Research Award), which is a grant to work on a research project of my own over the summer. It's a little difficult to explain without some background knowledge of immunology, but I'll be looking at how group 2 innate lymphoid cells regulate IgA production by B cells. If you understand that, awesome! If not, don't let it worry you :)<br />
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Anyways, the lab that I'm in is very laid-back and casual, but there are still some basic rules about what you should wear in a lab for safety. Long pants and covered shoes are a must, and I feel a little more comfortable in long (or at least 3/4) sleeves. Over the winter, I wore skirts with tights, but this summer in Montreal, it'll be far to hot to wear tights to and from the lab!<br />
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So, this kind of limits my options for MMM! Practicality really is key, and so far my only homemade pants (the Smooth Sailing Trousers, <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/05/guest-post-smooth-sailing-trousers.html" target="_blank">version 1</a> and <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/09/completed-smooth-sailing-trousers-take.html" target="_blank">version 2</a>), aren't really that practical for lab work. I just imagine them getting in the way!<br />
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<b>2. My body has changed a lot over the past couple years, and lots of my homemade clothes sadly no longer fit.</b><br />
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I've had to deal with a changing body over the past couple years, which has made sewing for myself really difficult. I (unwillingly) lost a lot of weight during my first year of university, kind of the opposite of the usual freshman fifteen! I've gained it back (plus a little more) now that I'm not relying on cafeteria food, and although I'm still definitely on the small side and gaining a little weight is not a problem, a lot of my me-made clothes no longer fit. This has led to a HUGE mending pile that I really need to get started on...<br />
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<b>3. I feel like I need a bit of a 'wardrobe overhaul', as my friend put it!</b><br />
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Right now, I'm feeling like I'm definitely in need of some big changes in my wardrobe. Lately I've been feeling as if so much of my clothing just isn't 'me' anymore! It feels odd (and almost a little embarrassing!) to admit it here, because my blog has always been about creating classic, sustainable clothing, and right now I just feel like giving a lot of it away and starting anew!<br />
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When I first started sewing my own clothes, I was really drawn to girly, vintage styles, like lots of full-skirted dresses and florals. Now, though, I feel like I'm sick of always being 'cute' (not to mention being mistaken for a pre-teen...) and I'm much more drawn to styles that are a little more laid back. I'm trying to find some ways to re-work my old me-mades and make them more wearable!<br />
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<b>My 'Pledge':</b><br />
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All these factors combined, I really can't commit to a 'strict' MMM pledge (not that they're ever really that strict to begin with!). Having said that, I've really loved participating in MMM the past two years, and I'd really like to do so again, so here's a reasonable, achievable, stress-free pledge that will make me think a little about what I'm wearing, and the gaps I really need to fill in my wardrobe:<br />
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<i>I, Shannon of Adventures of a Young Seamstress, pledge to find new ways to work me-mades into my wardrobe and identify the gaps that I need to fill. I will do my best to wear something me-made every day, but if I don't, that's okay - I'll just learn from it what I need to focus more on sewing!</i><br />
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Rather than doing a round-up post every week with my outfits (which I've always found a bit of a hassle), I'm going to be posting outfit photos on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">my Instagram</a>, and finish off the month with a round-up post. Head on over and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">follow me</a> if you don't already!<br />
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Since my pledge is <i>super</i> vague (and pretty lenient!), I've set myself some more concrete goals/guidelines for the month:<br />
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<b>1. Finish my GIANT pile of alterations</b><br />
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Almost this entire pile is me-mades that <i>could</i> be worn with a few mods, so once I tackle them I'll have a little more to work with for MMM!<br />
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<b>2. Focus on separates, especially pants!</b><br />
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Both to wear and to make - I'd like to find new ways to wear my homemade tops with pants rather than skirts like I usually would. I'm also starting to get a little more comfortable with sewing pants, and despite <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyrcXdKJHE/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">a little mishap with my first pair of Ginger jeans</a>, I'd love to try making another pair. I could probably fix the first pair, but the fit isn't great because my size changed since I started them, so I don't know if it'd be worth it. I also LOVE Heather's new <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyrcXdKJHE/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">boyfriend jeans pattern</a>, and I'm really drawn to those trendy relaxed but still slim pants - I have no idea what they're actually called. I haven't found a pattern I like yet, so I may borrow my roommate's pair and try to copy the pattern!<br />
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<b>3. Learn to copy patterns, draft some simple ones, and continue modifying those I already have</b><br />
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Like I said above, I have a few things I'd like to make that I just haven't found the perfect pattern for yet, or I might have a <i>similar</i> pattern that I'd rather modify than buy a new one (with a student budget and all...) I also have a few RTW pieces that I wear ALL the time and I'd love to copy, so this is definitely something I'd like to try this month!<br />
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I think that these goals are manageable and achievable, and will give me something to work on and think about if I can't manage to wear something me-made every day while I'm working. I think it'll also be great motivation to tackle my mending pile and find different ways to wear a lot of the pieces that I don't wear often anymore.<br />
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See you tomorrow on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>! #<a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/mmmay16/" target="_blank">MMMay16</a>Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-79319897261142637772016-03-05T20:42:00.000-08:002016-03-17T12:13:48.902-07:00Out With the Old - a (Long-Overdue) Photo Dump!Hello again, it's been a while! Once again, I've disappeared completely from the blogosphere for a couple months. One of these days, I will figure out how to juggle writing a blog while I have midterms and labs and assignments and applications and dance and life... maybe.<br />
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In the meantime, I keep my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a> a little more up-to-date with a mix of sewing, knitting, food, and pictures of Montreal when it's not slushy and gross like it has been the past few weeks.<br />
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I'm currently enjoying some well-deserved time off over my reading break after a really crazy midterm schedule. I've had a chance to catch up on life a little bit, including <i>finally </i>setting up a dedicated sewing space in my apartment. No more sewing on the kitchen table anymore!<br />
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I hadn't checked on my blog in close to a month, so I was a little surprised when I signed on the other day to see a lot of new traffic, since I've been voted one of the best sewing blogs of 2016 on <a href="http://www.madalynne.com/best-sewing-blogs/" target="_blank">Madalynne</a>, in the 'Up and Coming' category! Thank you SO much to everyone who voted for me - I'm really flattered!<br />
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This post has been a long time coming. After my winter break, I realized that part of what's holding me back from blogging is my "blogging queue". With lots of old projects photographed and unblogged, whenever I feel like doing a blog post, I feel like it has to be about one of those old projects. But, when I go to write about them, it just seems like I made them too long ago to even bother! I can't remember the little details specific to each project, and some of them I unfortunately don't even wear anymore.<br />
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So, before I move onto posting about some newer, more exciting things (like my brand new sewing machines, my homemade Christmas gifts, and some recent pattern testing), I'm going to sum up all those projects that I haven't blogged about yet in one big photo dump.<br />
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This feels like some sort of confession - I'm getting all this off my chest before I can move on!<br />
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I'll start off with my favourite of the bunch - yet another <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/moneta" target="_blank">Moneta dress</a>! This is my third - I've already blogged about my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-colette-moneta-dress-with-tie.html" target="_blank">first</a>, <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/completed-colette-moneta-dress-60s-style.html" target="_blank">second </a>and <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/completed-maroon-colette-moneta-dress.html" target="_blank">fourth</a>. I made this in the summer of 2014 (yikes!) and it's one of my favourite dresses to wear (along with all my other Monetas!).<br />
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I used an organic cotton and hemp blend jersey, and lined the bodice with cream bamboo jersey. I added the peter pan collar, which looks a little ripply in these photos because it stretched as I sewed it, but it flattened out with a couple washings. I included the pockets, and they worked really well in the more substantial jersey.<br />
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Keeping with the knit theme, I made a couple <a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/191968905/bronte-knit-top-ladies-pdf-sewing" target="_blank">Bronte tops</a> that summer as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfUymgCMe_U31WoxJsKQGnHsVUo4J3jYik3t476nyiWQdCUDpqAqLdNWCjEf35Sp77wMhQ6LVDm2Q9NQzIbAzlqT5DE9DzfK3tdbMK7MNgjHjTUKf3oxcv_0L5JXxh3Woks0UqopdjWQ/s1600/Bronte+Tops.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRfUymgCMe_U31WoxJsKQGnHsVUo4J3jYik3t476nyiWQdCUDpqAqLdNWCjEf35Sp77wMhQ6LVDm2Q9NQzIbAzlqT5DE9DzfK3tdbMK7MNgjHjTUKf3oxcv_0L5JXxh3Woks0UqopdjWQ/s640/Bronte+Tops.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I made the red one from some rayon jersey (you might recognize it from my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-muse-natalie-dress.html" target="_blank">Natalie dress</a> that I made last summer!). I cut a size 6, but sized up at the waist because I don't like my T-shirts skin tight, and I found the fit to be pretty good, but the armholes were a little tight.<br />
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For the purple one, I just sized up to a size 8 everywhere, and I prefer the fit that way. I made it from a remnant of the most amazing bamboo jersey, and my favourite part is the buttons - they were from my grandma's stash and they have polka-dot bow ties on them! The buttons on the red one were also from my grandma's stash.<br />
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Next up is a skirt I made from handprinted cotton voile from <a href="http://www.maiwa.com/stores/supply/supply.html" target="_blank">Maiwa</a> on Granville Island in Vancouver. I followed Tilly's guide to make a <a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2012/06/how-to-make-picnic-blanket-skirt-part-1.html" target="_blank">Picnic Blanket Skirt</a>, which is simply a gathered button-down skirt, to which I added pockets and a lining.<br />
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It ended up looking really clean on the inside - in fact it's <i>almost</i> reversible and could have been with a little more planning. Too bad! I'll keep that in mind for a future project...<br />
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These buttons were also from my Grandma's stash - they were hand-carved ones she bought when travelling in Africa.<br />
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I love the print of this skirt, but it's almost a little too gathered to feel practical. I love it when I wear it, but I don't find myself reaching for it! I might shorten it and see if that helps - I've done that with a couple full skirts and I find it makes them more wearable.<br />
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This next skirt is the <a href="http://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/en/sewing-patterns/14-chardon-skirt-pattern.html" target="_blank">Chardon skirt </a>by Deer and Doe, a pattern company that I've wanted to try for ages. My mom gave me this pattern for Christmas in 2014, and I made it when I was in Vancouver briefly before going to Canmore last summer.<br />
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I made a size 36, which was for a waist measurement a little bigger than mine, but it's snug! The pattern isn't kidding when it says it has very little ease. I put in a hand-picked lapped zipper, and I omitted the topstitching on the pleats, simply stitching in the ditch to secure them instead.<br />
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The fabric is some polyester crepe that was in my aunt's stash that she passed on to me. I normally don't like poly much, but it was the perfect weight to hold the pleats and yet still drape, but I found that I never wore the colour since it only matched with this one shirt. So, I dyed it! I haven't taken pictures since, but it's now a gorgeous purple-blue colour. Admittedly, it still doesn't match with very much, although I do like the colour a lot more now.<br />
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Since learning to sew with knits, I've also made a TON of underwear from jersey scraps. Here are my first four (experimental) pairs!<br />
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I used <a href="http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.ca/p/free-patterns.html" target="_blank">So, Zo's free pattern</a> as a starting point, but modified it for a lot more coverage and more of a boy-short cut. It took quite a few tries to figure out the right length of elastic to use - you might notice the bottom left pair have <i>waaay</i> too much elastic. Now I can whip up a pair from leftover jersey in under an hour, and they turn out well every time!<br />
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And lastly, a knitting project!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSO1nx1UM0Xlh_ZGF8ZUVoC68BAF4YZHD4phRgYlwIrB5J7Dpx77udF2LFXIHm0UampB9nXsWTFMZamv8oqux3vl1XYunBXYHDqn6Gjrb8s9blFODzmaqRr3kXBGQQg66J1kDbUnEIQs/s1600/Melonheads+Hat+and+Cowl+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSO1nx1UM0Xlh_ZGF8ZUVoC68BAF4YZHD4phRgYlwIrB5J7Dpx77udF2LFXIHm0UampB9nXsWTFMZamv8oqux3vl1XYunBXYHDqn6Gjrb8s9blFODzmaqRr3kXBGQQg66J1kDbUnEIQs/s640/Melonheads+Hat+and+Cowl+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used a hand-dyed and hand-spun BFL yarn for this set, which is some of the softest wool I've ever worked with - it's gorgeous! The pattern for the hat was a free pattern I picked up from a local yarn store, but I think the wool wasn't quite bulky enough for it. I used the same cable pattern for the cowl, and skipped the ribbing at the bottom edge to make it roll.<br />
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I'm not really sure how I feel about these - they're nice, but neither are quite warm enough for the Montreal winter. The hat is a little small and the cowl is a little big, so they don't really keep my neck and ears that warm! It seems a shame to save these for the fall and spring, so I'm considering re-knitting them into a cozier scarf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQbo3mbb007bnp8Y5eELSKCqtI7G5HlRuDR97vydX_fRyC42wCgY3B4TLNNX0QEoHHjvvM8xIlxo0P10w0HDqX5cInep4lKjiNoIq0H2BixEWoZdlggp-fLwD59fS1FF5jKtVo_riio8/s1600/Melonheads+Hat+and+Cowl+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCQbo3mbb007bnp8Y5eELSKCqtI7G5HlRuDR97vydX_fRyC42wCgY3B4TLNNX0QEoHHjvvM8xIlxo0P10w0HDqX5cInep4lKjiNoIq0H2BixEWoZdlggp-fLwD59fS1FF5jKtVo_riio8/s640/Melonheads+Hat+and+Cowl+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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So, that's everything for my photo dump! I'll be back soon with my latest handknit sweater, my tester version of the brand-new <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/sarah-shirt-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Sarah Shirt</a> from BHL, and some handknit Christmas gifts.... <i>promise!</i><br />
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Now to find myself a photographer so I can actually <i>keep</i> that promise...Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-61123041386613978612016-01-03T22:17:00.001-08:002016-01-03T22:17:37.713-08:00Hello 2016!Happy new year! It's been a bit quiet over here since the summer ended! I wish that I could say that I've been busy sewing... but that's definitely not true! By the time my new sewing machines arrived and were ready to be set up, I was in the middle of midterms and just never seemed to find an afternoon to set them up. It also doesn't help that I don't (yet) have a desk or table for them!<br />
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I'm going to try to keep this pretty short and get back to knitting the last of my (late) Christmas gifts, but it's nice to look over some highlights from the year! I'll mostly let the pictures do the talking.<br />
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These were my 'Best 9' on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a> - unsurprisingly, 3 of them are from the Super Online Sewing Match! The rest were mostly photos of older/unfinished/potential projects as part of Rachel's <a href="http://houseofpinheiro.com/2015/08/sewphotohop.html" target="_blank">Sew Photo Hop</a>, including my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/the-grad-dress-part-iv-finished-dress.html" target="_blank">grad dress</a>, my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/completed-maroon-colette-moneta-dress.html" target="_blank">maroon Moneta dress</a>, my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2013/08/completed-cambie-dress-take-ii.html" target="_blank">duvet Cambie dress</a>, a 40's dress UFO, and one of my favourite vintage patterns.<br />
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<b><i>Sewing Highlights:</i></b><br />
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<b>1. The Super Online Sewing Match</b><br />
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Obviously, the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/super-online-sewing-match-ii-everything-you-need-to-know/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a> was my main sewing highlight this year - everything else seems a little pale in comparison! I'm still so grateful to Beth and Kristin at <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a> for organizing the competition. There were definitely stressful parts (like when <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/5-gJomqJB0/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">my iron died</a> halfway through the fourth challenge), but most of the time, it was so much fun and such a great challenge to receive all the patterns and try to make them my own.<br />
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I learned quite a bit (through lots of improvisation and trial and error!) about pattern modification, when I'd never really done at all before. During the challenges, I did some of the neatest (and most challenging!) sewing I've ever done - I was always looking for ways that I could make my projects even more special. I tried so many new techniques - adding trim to French seams and making my own bias binding on my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/sosm-round-1-sutton-blouse.html" target="_blank">Sutton blouse</a>, reverse applique on my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/07/sosm-round-two-marianne-dress.html" target="_blank">Marianne dress</a>, adding removable backpack straps to my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/07/sosm-round-three-caravan-tote.html" target="_blank">Caravan tote bag</a>, flatlining and making piping for my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/sosm-round-three-carolyn-pajamas.html" target="_blank">Carolyn Pajamas</a>, and more new techniques than I can list for my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/sosm-round-five-cascade-duffle-coat.html" target="_blank">Cascade duffle coat</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuOhR0yOmmU3w48O565W2xhOCq2JltwNUwlCsvkHzJUR05ip_RczHlWW-aEOOaxPXFdGauXLXeAboGPcGCA8CaGiC5fdjD0laYNBdNLgCL9V-Xv7V56pfBySM94XGha4ktONSRA5M0ek/s1600/Marianne+Dress+%252819%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJuOhR0yOmmU3w48O565W2xhOCq2JltwNUwlCsvkHzJUR05ip_RczHlWW-aEOOaxPXFdGauXLXeAboGPcGCA8CaGiC5fdjD0laYNBdNLgCL9V-Xv7V56pfBySM94XGha4ktONSRA5M0ek/s640/Marianne+Dress+%252819%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'd never made a bag or a coat before, and they were both things that I had been hoping to make for ages! I never imagined making them with the tight deadlines that I had during the contest. Looking back, I'm not sure how I managed the deadlines! I just remember sewing like mad on my days off work.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLsNBMGHjbeQGQp259UxqRtjes8GfzxD8KEdUHBASXK9EzZRh1TBK47qlaEtFJNY_m39r7LbeybJsplN97_qNFMCyelAFU95M_0NtEH0wWsq8uoH9-TVzSvtDT_f_bnNR7hLsjWIPC7w/s1600/Caravan+Tote+%252811%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyLsNBMGHjbeQGQp259UxqRtjes8GfzxD8KEdUHBASXK9EzZRh1TBK47qlaEtFJNY_m39r7LbeybJsplN97_qNFMCyelAFU95M_0NtEH0wWsq8uoH9-TVzSvtDT_f_bnNR7hLsjWIPC7w/s640/Caravan+Tote+%252811%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Best of all, I've worn everything that I made quite a bit! My Sutton blouse is my go-to top for wearing with jeans or tucked into a skirt - it looks great dressed up or dressed down! And my Cascade duffle coat was perfect for the cool fall and mild winter weather in Montreal this semester.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9WpqoAjkgSLszvHe_hUfdaXC6cqTzrIaMpfgBHhpNBH8RCk5K4UYgy7eW9Xlhnrcb_0-icp7vswfJpuQ44ruixdq1C9QbV7idLmjGv3Y_iz_OasA-qks0AnhnjFPlF40SJixkPs_Stk/s1600/Carolyn+Pajamas+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9WpqoAjkgSLszvHe_hUfdaXC6cqTzrIaMpfgBHhpNBH8RCk5K4UYgy7eW9Xlhnrcb_0-icp7vswfJpuQ44ruixdq1C9QbV7idLmjGv3Y_iz_OasA-qks0AnhnjFPlF40SJixkPs_Stk/s640/Carolyn+Pajamas+%25287%2529.jpg" width="478" /></a></div>
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Obviously I'm so happy to have won the contest, but I'm so proud of all my projects and everything that I would have been happy no matter how the contest ended. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFf9kDJ0-vHdyb7m1CIIGU4sfkenTXv34IiYJHXoY3eN0YNuIuAAyiaGr1p57I6L1MXLzEBpuzU05KCK6A5XonPe6pc2oJ1gWVm1xV4oWIzHNr_mz4yimFN9xL3shjraZMMfOGaSSsPLo/s1600/_MWB2625A+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFf9kDJ0-vHdyb7m1CIIGU4sfkenTXv34IiYJHXoY3eN0YNuIuAAyiaGr1p57I6L1MXLzEBpuzU05KCK6A5XonPe6pc2oJ1gWVm1xV4oWIzHNr_mz4yimFN9xL3shjraZMMfOGaSSsPLo/s640/_MWB2625A+1.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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<b>2. Indie Pattern Month at the Monthly Stitch</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw4IJSw3Fq4X_WnXdlu2u-vzicAEtpqN4n7Cp40vc-H1-3X8VrwocaHQzfVEBDDoxRIt2lOF4jRUtqJWiS3ADzgoUT-SrB7l3v9dsYHGyXz05Nf5f4VyzJs2DCMm43y1bawkXuMz_6NkQ/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw4IJSw3Fq4X_WnXdlu2u-vzicAEtpqN4n7Cp40vc-H1-3X8VrwocaHQzfVEBDDoxRIt2lOF4jRUtqJWiS3ADzgoUT-SrB7l3v9dsYHGyXz05Nf5f4VyzJs2DCMm43y1bawkXuMz_6NkQ/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25282%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Before being chosen as a SOSM contestant, I won a prize over at <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">the Monthly Stitch</a> in their 'Separates' contest for <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/2015/05/02/indie-pattern-month-2015-the-contests/" target="_blank">Indie Pattern Month</a>! I entered my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-miz-mozelle-2-piece-set.html" target="_blank">Miz Mozelle 2-piece dress,</a> and won an amazing pair of Merchant and Mills shears that got some good use during the sewing match!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1IIDLCDt636mz5uX9o3eSlmlodpVCO24_8QnaZSLT_QxlNeL7FtkZZ32z6QxrMUq1bDelUsref1xaEB6fo4yhSC3liajV9pXLs2d99BtjoOO9uCW4LopU9yiHHrPO-hKTpXjt0jOD_A/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht1IIDLCDt636mz5uX9o3eSlmlodpVCO24_8QnaZSLT_QxlNeL7FtkZZ32z6QxrMUq1bDelUsref1xaEB6fo4yhSC3liajV9pXLs2d99BtjoOO9uCW4LopU9yiHHrPO-hKTpXjt0jOD_A/s400/IMG_0630.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>3. 'Dress Up Party' at Sew Sweetness</b></div>
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I also wrote <a href="http://sewsweetness.com/2015/05/dress-up-party-pattern-review-smooth-sailing-trousers.html" target="_blank">my first guest post</a>, a review of the Smooth Sailing Trousers on <a href="http://sewsweetness.com/" target="_blank">Sew Sweetness</a> as part of her 'Dress Up Party'. Although the pants are super stretched and possibly beyond repair, I love the pattern so much that <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/09/completed-smooth-sailing-trousers-take.html" target="_blank">I made another pair</a>! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUAR2atAVfPxkFEQNOXe_Gnt9mFdswF0xtt2kXeBf6EhuGodk_fDYxwFB4mi8TgJDaDFYee1_HF3AsguzzTo-eBse7kYIAz_44F9behH4GjaEgWrbJKOZdmVY8EeIOwPSth7SJlH_wHMU/s1600/Smooth+Sailing+Trousers+%25289%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUAR2atAVfPxkFEQNOXe_Gnt9mFdswF0xtt2kXeBf6EhuGodk_fDYxwFB4mi8TgJDaDFYee1_HF3AsguzzTo-eBse7kYIAz_44F9behH4GjaEgWrbJKOZdmVY8EeIOwPSth7SJlH_wHMU/s640/Smooth+Sailing+Trousers+%25289%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Knitting Highlights</i></b></div>
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<b>1. My first cardigan!</b></div>
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As far as knitting goes, I was really happy to have finished <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/04/completed-knit-marion-cardigan.html" target="_blank">my first cardigan</a> this year! It was a major learning curve and I made a lot of mistakes, but I love the finished cardigan and wear it all the time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDCmcsgqHv7Y0qN4cNF5Xm8TP2TMjYA1pEb4SRigTtrrQmrFQ9UspLz-odoR2FpixHsHH0zh0EDt69AKBOwwwhO7k9UliDyIZvZzIqiwn-0e6R3qgb0ehdm6cWFgkjImCm-iFgc2-pDk/s1600/Marion+Cardigan+%25286%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDCmcsgqHv7Y0qN4cNF5Xm8TP2TMjYA1pEb4SRigTtrrQmrFQ9UspLz-odoR2FpixHsHH0zh0EDt69AKBOwwwhO7k9UliDyIZvZzIqiwn-0e6R3qgb0ehdm6cWFgkjImCm-iFgc2-pDk/s640/Marion+Cardigan+%25286%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I do have a few other smaller projects finished, but I don't know if I'll ever get around to blogging about them. I am, however, almost finished another sweater, that I hope to have on the blog this semester!</div>
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<b><i>Sewing and Knitting Goals</i></b></div>
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Looking back at <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/happy-new-year.html" target="_blank">last year's sewing goals</a>, I definitely achieved two out of three of them! I wanted to find more challenging projects, and focus more on fit - both of which I did through the sewing match. I also wanted to finish that UFO in my first photo in this post (the green floral dress), but obviously that didn't happen! I was just far too busy with the sewing contest this summer.</div>
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I'm so busy with school these days that I'm trying not to set any unachievable sewing goals for myself. Instead, I have a few very simple, realistic goals:</div>
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<b>1. Set up my sewing space </b>(in other words, buy a desk to put my machine on...)</div>
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<b>2. Finish my Ginger jeans </b></div>
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<b>3. Enjoy it and relax!</b></div>
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I know that if I try to set too many unrealistic expectations of how much time I'll be able to dedicate to sewing and knitting, I'll just be disappointed and frustrated. Instead, I'm going to remember to enjoy it and appreciate it as a break from studying!</div>
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<b><i>Other Highlights</i></b></div>
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<b>1. Working in Canmore over the summer</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqrJkKlnOGyTgMoYXImgc-6NANLZ1A9WGe1w6mYT5CrOYSmCp5rrtuAQT5mVKuWrXOwEShKZlKvHiZPeQLeqyMJfAEygZD5AUdMhPn6lXdSR9wUXLzs4Ha2v1OazII1OLeZUpq6pBPo64/s1600/20150715_081446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqrJkKlnOGyTgMoYXImgc-6NANLZ1A9WGe1w6mYT5CrOYSmCp5rrtuAQT5mVKuWrXOwEShKZlKvHiZPeQLeqyMJfAEygZD5AUdMhPn6lXdSR9wUXLzs4Ha2v1OazII1OLeZUpq6pBPo64/s640/20150715_081446.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I still can't quite believe how beautiful Canmore is, and it's so nice to look back at photos. I loved my job and biking to work every day, and I still managed to get lots of sewing done on my days off! Those who follow me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram </a>might recognize this photo as one of many photos that I posted of my bike ride to work. It was such an incredible way to spend a summer!</div>
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<b>2. Moving into my own apartment in Montreal</b></div>
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I moved out of residence at McGill in April, and now I'm renting an apartment in the Plateau of Montreal, with a roommate. I love the apartment and the area, and I'm especially enjoying cooking for myself!</div>
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<b>3. Starting the Microbiology and Immunology Program at McGill</b></div>
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When I was choosing my major, I was so torn and undecided, but I settled on the Microbiology and Immunology (MIMM) program, which sounded really interesting although I wasn't so sure if I would do well in it. I took a variety of courses this semester to keep my options open in case I wanted to change my mind, but so far I'm loving the program! My introductory course on microbiology this was so interesting, and the lab course my favourite course last semester by far. I've started volunteering in an immunology lab to learn some more lab skills and dip my toes into some research, and I'm really enjoying that as well!</div>
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Overall, it's been a really great year! School is definitely getting more challenging, but I'm enjoying it and I feels like I'm in the right place (even if I really have no idea where I'll be in a few years!).</div>
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Thanks for reading, and happy new year!</div>
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Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-18610494936966664902015-11-26T16:36:00.000-08:002015-11-26T16:36:21.562-08:00Completed: Wool Muse Jenna CardiWhen I went back to school in September, one of my main goals was to make time for sewing, knitting, and blogging, especially since <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/an-exciting-end-to-summer.html" target="_blank">I now have not only one sewing machine, but two</a>!<br />
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Three months later, I'm at that point in the semester when all my labs are finishing up, I've been done with midterms for a week now, and I'm realizing that I definitely haven't been keeping up with that goal! In fact, my sewing machines are still sitting on my living room floor because I don't yet have a desk for them. My desk for studying never seems to be clear for long enough to use it as a sewing desk! I'm lucky enough to have space in my student apartment for a small dedicated sewing space, but I still haven't bought the table I need to set it up.<br />
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Anyways, although I haven't been sewing, I still have so many unblogged projects to write about. I originally wrote this post back in the summer in between rounds of the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/search/label/super%20online%20sewing%20match" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>, but never finished editing the photos for it! Now that <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/-eek-0qJFx/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">Montreal is starting to feel a little wintery</a>, I've been wearing this a lot lately and thought it was a good time to (finally!) post about it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKf1XS6phIx7WMR_NIhIc5zDqhI5NWoUAjC1kfhpX83gMydBMqHpXdKXzDSrTwYUGpM4JkvRgV6if6nKbdqGFhqXHBrj1qUM6uUfHvf_QDP7YLyeFacHoVdWPwVuXNBsJqFpvX3jXU4_Y/s1600/Jenna+Cardi+2+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKf1XS6phIx7WMR_NIhIc5zDqhI5NWoUAjC1kfhpX83gMydBMqHpXdKXzDSrTwYUGpM4JkvRgV6if6nKbdqGFhqXHBrj1qUM6uUfHvf_QDP7YLyeFacHoVdWPwVuXNBsJqFpvX3jXU4_Y/s640/Jenna+Cardi+2+%25281%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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I had quite a few comments on this cardigan during Me-Made-May this year - it's my second version of the <a href="http://sewingmuse.com/products/jenna-cardi" target="_blank">Muse Jenna Cardi</a>, made in a wool double knit that <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/exploring-montreals-fabric-stores.html" target="_blank">I bought in Montreal</a> during my first fabric shopping trip to Rue St. Hubert. I made this when I was home for Christmas (so, almost a year ago, oops!)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika2AOVNpLyzQ5fHaWrhPerOQqJ6yGjJyQSsWMzkhXuIyr7Ve8NZ7osZ5wpPXBSD5hPXr7bulXg-KABJK1qG2VztdSYKtM9SOkldReLlsP6cJmKnQG8u8EvIb2INxWOrysdp9Copm-dJA/s1600/Jenna+Cardi+2+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEika2AOVNpLyzQ5fHaWrhPerOQqJ6yGjJyQSsWMzkhXuIyr7Ve8NZ7osZ5wpPXBSD5hPXr7bulXg-KABJK1qG2VztdSYKtM9SOkldReLlsP6cJmKnQG8u8EvIb2INxWOrysdp9Copm-dJA/s640/Jenna+Cardi+2+%25282%2529.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/completed-muse-jenna-cardi.html" target="_blank">My first version</a> of this pattern fit pretty well, but it needed a couple adjustments. When I first made it, I was expecting it to be much too long, so I shortened it 1 1/2". This turned out to be too much, so I lengthened it 1", so this version is only 1/2" shorter than the original, which is just about perfect.<br />
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I took in the shoulder seams 1/4", which makes them sit a bit better on me. They could still be narrowed a little, although they may have just stretched out a little. If I make another, I'll stabilize the shoulder seams with clear elastic (in fact, I might go back and sew some to the seam allowance of this one, to stop them stretching out more).<br />
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Although I ended up shortening the sleeves on my first version to 3/4 length, I noticed that they were quite wide before I chopped them off, so I narrowed them by 1/2" on either side for this version. I narrowed the cuff to match, and I shortened them 2". I think Muse patterns are drafted for someone quite a bit taller!<br />
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I sewed all the seams on my mom's serger, and the topstitching was done on my regular machine, with a ballpoint needle and a straight stitch. Oddly enough, I find that a straight stitch stretches more when it's topstitching a serged seam allowance flat. It's all I've ever used for this kind of topstitching on knits, and I've never had any problems with broken stitches! For hems, I still use a twin needle or a narrow zigzag, though.<br />
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Although this fabric is amazing to wear, it was tricky to sew with. I didn't really have any problems until the button band, which I realized was far too short when I went to attach it! I think it shrunk when I fused the interfacing to it (I did pre-wash it, but in cold water)! I luckily had enough fabric left over to squeeze an extra button band out of it, making it extra long. After I'd interfaced it, I cut it to the right length.<br />
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The fabric also definitely has some spandex, whereas the fabric I used for my first version didn't. The vertical stretch from the spandex made attaching the button band quite difficult! The top layer kept stretching, and as a result, there are a couple little tucks in the stitching on the inside, but nothing is visible from the outside, so I decided to leave it. Unpicking serging is such a pain - that's one advantage to sewing knits on a regular machine!<br />
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The topstitching was equally tricky, because the fabric kept wanting to stretch and bunch up. I eventually got it to look decent, though it's definitely not my best topstitching. This would be a lot easier in fabric with less vertical stretch!<br />
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After this, I decided that making buttonholes in this fabric would be far too finicky, so instead I attached snaps by hand. These buttons are only decorative!<br />
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These buttons have a somewhat interesting story - I finished this cardigan while home for Christmas, aside from attaching snaps and buttons. I didn't have any buttons that I wanted to use, but I knew that I would be able to buy some in Montreal. Once I attached the snaps, though, it took me at least a month to get myself out to buy buttons! It's not that it's really that far by metro to Rue St. Hubert, but it was difficult to find time to make the trip.<br />
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When I finally did, it was an afternoon that I had no labs and no immediate studying to do, but it was also one of the coldest days in February (and Montreal had a record-breaking cold February)! I was planning to go to Rubans Boutons, a store that specializes in buttons, but it was so bitterly cold and windy that I just ducked into the first store I saw that sold buttons and bought these. It was a really difficult shade to match, so instead I went for these black-brown buttons with a little flower detail. I love them, and they were really inexpensive.<br />
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I think that with the little tweaks to the fit, and a nicer (to wear) fabric, this second version of the Jenna turned out much better than the first. It's a super versatile piece and nice and cozy! The only things I don't love is that the style doesn't look so nice unbuttoned, so I might experiment next time with making it into a V-neck with a continuous binding around the neck and button band. In some of these pictures, I unbuttoned the bottom half, but it's not the most flattering way to wear it!<br />
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I should also mention the top I'm wearing in this post, since I probably won't post about it on its own. It's my fourth version of the Bronte Top by Jennifer Lauren, my go-to knit to pattern. I whipped it up when I needed a simple project to get back into sewing when I was home for reading week. The fabric you might recognize if you've been following for a while - it's leftover from a <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/completed-colette-moneta-dress-60s-style.html" target="_blank">Moneta dress</a> that I made last summer.<br />
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I made it with 3/4 length sleeves and added on extra ease at the hips, like my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/02/completed-charley-harper-bronte-top.html" target="_blank">third Bronte</a>, and I'm pretty happy with it. I goofed and overlapped the shoulder too much, so when I took these pictures, the neckline was really tight and not super flattering.<br />
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Note to self: just because you've already made a pattern three times, doesn't mean that it wouldn't help to glance at the instructions! They say clearly that you line up the notch on the front piece with the edge of the back piece when they overlap, but I went ahead and lined up the notches on the two pieces, meaning that I overlapped them a lot more than I was supposed to!<br />
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It would mean a lot of unpicking serged seams to fix this, so I just left it, accepting that it wasn't my best make. But, I realized pretty quickly that I wasn't wearing it, so it needed to be fixed. The first thing that I unpicked was the stitching that tacks the two layers together, and I realized that this fixed the problem! It now bunches up a little around the shoulders, but with such a busy print, it's not noticeable. For such a simple knit top, it was an easy fix, so I'm happy with it! I haven't had a chance to take any pictures since fixing it, but I find it much more flattering now.<br />
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Anyways, I'm not going to convince myself that I'll have time to blog again while studying for finals, but you can keep up with me on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, where I'll share some sneak peeks of my holiday knitting (that I'm NOT going to leave to the last minute... right???)<br />
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Until next time! Happy Thanksgiving to all my American readers, and thanks for reading!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-15737632532178813152015-09-25T15:55:00.000-07:002015-09-25T15:57:50.128-07:00Completed: Smooth Sailing Trousers, Take IIFirst of all, I'd like to say a huge thank you for everyone's support and congratulations for winning the Super Online Sewing Match! I had to stop responding to comments because my replies were getting a little redundant (I can only say thank you so many times!), but I'm reading them all and I appreciate every one.<br />
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It felt a little strange once it was over, because suddenly I had no more deadlines! I took advantage of the time to work on some mending and alterations that I had been ignoring all summer, catching up on some knitting, and writing some blog posts about things I made ages ago and never blogged about (oops).<br />
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Speaking of not blogging, sorry for the total radio silence over here! I got so busy so quickly with school and moving into my Montreal apartment, and since I haven't really been sewing, my mind hasn't really been on blogging. Even though I wrote up some post on past makes on the plane, it's taken me ages to get around to editing photos! (And yes, these are some more photos that I took at my uncle's place with my phone duct taped to the railing... ugh, they are so boring!)<br />
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I've been meaning to post about these pants since I posted about <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/05/guest-post-smooth-sailing-trousers.html" target="_blank">my first version</a> back in May... what happened to the summer? These are my second version of the <a href="https://wearinghistory.clothing/product/e-pattern-smooth-sailing-trousers/" target="_blank">Smooth Sailing Trousers</a> by Wearing History. I loved my first pair, but they stretched out so much and I'm not sure they're mendable, to be honest. I've pinned up the new hem, but it's practically on the bias since the inside of the pants legs stretched so much more than the outside, for whatever reason. Because of this, they flare out very oddly at the bottom. I'll see if they hang a little more nicely once they're hemmed for real...<br />
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Anyways, on to this pair, which I'm much happier with! I'll start with the fabric - this was a 100% unknown suiting fabric that I got whem I volunteered at <a href="https://oursocialfabric.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Our Social Fabric</a> earlier in May. At first I thought that it was mostly (if not all) polyester, but then when I saw how much it wrinkled and shrunk, I think there's definitely some rayon, maybe even some linen, in there. Anyways, it has beautiful drape and a nice feel to it, but it's still substantial enough for these pants. I have plenty left over, so I think I may make a matching jacket! It was wonderful to work with and I love the colour, which is just a touch more green than it looks in these photos.<br />
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I made a few modifications to the pattern from the first time to improve the fit. I graded back down to a size 12 at the hips and the legs, so this was pretty much a straight size 12, grading to a 14 at the waist. The first time I made it, I made a straight size 14, but kept the shape and size of the crotch curve from the size 12, which was the size I made my muslin in.<br />
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The fit is passable, although it's definitely not quite right in the back. I didn't notice the odd way the fabric is hanging when I made my first pair, so I don't know if that was a side effect of making the legs a little narrower or just something that wasn't so obvious in drapier black fabric. In any case, it looks like I need to scoop a little out of the back crotch curve, which I might actually still be able to do easily enough. The way these pants are put together, it's really easy to tweak the fit at the crotch.<br />
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I find that when I wear my first version, I'm always reaching for pockets, so I had to add them this time around! I used the pocket piece from the <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/cambie-dress/" target="_blank">Cambie dress</a>, but I modified it so that the pockets could be sewn into the waistband to stop them drooping. I took lots of pictures of the process with the plan of doing a tutorial on how to do this, but after all the pattern hacking I did this summer, this seems pretty simple in comparison! If anyone's interested, I could still write it, but for now I'll just show off my finished pockets!<br />
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Since I added pockets at the side seams, I moved the zipper to the centre back. I did a lapped zipper instead of a centered one, and hand picked it. This time, I remembered to add on the extra seam allowance for the lapped zipper - this was especially important because the seam allowances are only 1/2" for this pattern.<br />
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I made these while I was in Canmore, so I couldn't use my mom's serger. I just zigzagged the edges, although in retrospect, I wish I'd taken the time to do bias bound edges. The zigazzed edges aren't very neat when compared to some of my more recent makes with French seams or flatlining. I guess that just shows how much I've learned about finishing techniques this summer!<br />
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To hem these, I turned under the edge 1/2", then another 1 1/4", then slipstitched. I can't remember exactly why the odd amount, but that what I have written in my notes! These seem to be the right length, anyways. I hemmed them short enough that I could wear them with flats, but just long enough that they don't look too short with heels either. I took a few pictures in both, and I think I prefer the flats, which is probably how I'll wear them most often anyways!<br />
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I couldn't find a button that matched, so I put in a hook and bar to close the underlap above the zipper.<br />
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The one thing I'm not so happy about it my belt loop placement. Because I moved the zipper to the back, I couldn't use the suggested placement, so instead I pinned it on the pants and just marked where they looked about right. Unfortunately, once I'd attached them, they were completely off from where I'd marked! I'm not really sure why, but since the loops are sewn into the seam that attaches the waistband to the pants, unpicking them means unpicking the waistband after it's been attached. Looking back, that wouldn't really have been that much unpicking, so I'm not sure why I didn't bother, but I guess I decided that it was good enough. (Again, writing this, I realize how much I've learned from the SOSM! After all the unpicking I did to get things right, I realize that taking a bit more time to fix something can make you so much happier with the finished product.)<br />
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Overall, though, I'm quite happy with these - much happier than with my first pair! I haven't worn them all that much over the summer because they aren't very bike-friendly, but in the fall in Montreal, they'll be great!<br />
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Thanks for reading!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-17882402046803612592015-08-25T18:44:00.000-07:002015-08-25T20:33:06.343-07:00Super Online Sewing Match: The End!I still can't quite believe this, but I opened my email last night to some very exciting news: <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/08/the-grand-prize-winner-is-2/" target="_blank">I won the Super Online Sewing Match</a>! I remember when I was debating whether or not it was even worth it to send in an audition email. I didn't think I stood a chance!<br />
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Before submitting our entries for round five, we were asked <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/08/challenger-question-round-five-what-have-you-learned-in-the-contest/" target="_blank">what we learned about ourselves and our sewing</a> through this contest. This was my answer:<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">"<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">This has been a summer of huge personal growth for me in many ways; I moved out of residence to live on my own, I worked my first full-time job, and I competed in this contest. Oddly enough, I've called sewing and knitting my "creative outlet" since picking it up again just over two years ago, I've never considered myself a very creative or artistic person. At school, I've always been strongest in math and science, and that's exactly what I'm studying at university - the most creative course I'll be taking next year is computer programming! </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">That being said, this contest has made me realize how creative I can actually be. I felt a little like the underdog in this contest, being the youngest with only a couple years of "serious" sewing under my belt, but it has really pushed me to branch out, try new techniques, change designs to suit my style, and make the highest quality garment I can. It's given me the incentive I needed to break out of my habit of making more knit tops and dresses! I never knew if anything would work out, but everything so far has, and because of that, I've become so much more confident in my sewing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I've also realized how much I love hand sewing, which I've always seen as a finishing touch, usually to make the finishing of a garment less visible. My Marianne dress was my first project where my hand stitching was visible on purpose, and I loved it! I can't wait to experiment with other hand embellishments - next up is learning some hand embroidery!"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I'm so incredibly proud of everything I've made as part of this contest. I wear both <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/sosm-round-1-sutton-blouse.html" target="_blank">my Sutton Blouse</a> and <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/07/sosm-round-two-marianne-dress.html" target="_blank">my Marianne Dress</a> quite a bit, and I sleep in <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/sosm-round-three-carolyn-pajamas.html" target="_blank">my Carolyn Pajamas</a> every night! <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/07/sosm-round-three-caravan-tote.html" target="_blank">My Caravan Tote</a> is my go-to summer bag anytime I need something a little bigger than my purse, and perfect for cycling when I wear it as a backpack!</span></div>
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I was so happy with <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/08/sosm-round-five-cascade-duffle-coat.html" target="_blank">my Cascade Duffle Coat</a>, and I think it'll be so great for fall in Montreal, but I really had no idea how this contest would end. <a href="http://sewspoiled.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Leah </a>and <a href="http://www.dandeliondrift.com/" target="_blank">Teresa </a>are both such talented sewists, and they both made amazing coats. It's been such a pleasure to sew alongside everyone else in the contest as well: <a href="http://sewingmyselfstylish.com/" target="_blank">Lori</a>, <a href="http://zibergirl.com/" target="_blank">Barbara</a>, <a href="http://oliviajanehandcrafted.com/blog/" target="_blank">Meredith</a>, <a href="http://sewnhenge.com/" target="_blank">Michelle</a>, <a href="http://ornamentalconfectionery.blogspot.ca/" target="_blank">Kristina</a>, <a href="http://tanyamaile.com/" target="_blank">Tanya</a>, and <a href="https://redknits.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Cheryl</a>. I loved seeing everyone's take on the same patterns, and I got many ideas for future projects from them!</div>
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This contest couldn't have come at a better time for me. I'm just about to move into my first apartment in Montreal, where I'll set up my own sewing space with my new machines. I'm also only a few days away from my second-year "blogiversary" - my first post on this blog was on August 29th, 2013! I remember following the first SOSM two years ago with such admiration for the contestants, just before starting my blog. I never imagined, then, that I would be a contestant in the next one, let alone the winner! I've learned so much in the couple of years since I picked up sewing again, and I've especially learned so much this summer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXTtkOf9w-K97mtsz3XcBBgpNunm8Mfo-2koH9aXPPp7douvG9lzbBf2i0nnHovd0of9psTPsizqkjfdvOFlaVMETalL6RV1BzzxFR34UCogRhR_7HaPXS4Sd8lYllzIhhHrSWe-gCDw/s1600/Sutton+Blouse+%25289%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifXTtkOf9w-K97mtsz3XcBBgpNunm8Mfo-2koH9aXPPp7douvG9lzbBf2i0nnHovd0of9psTPsizqkjfdvOFlaVMETalL6RV1BzzxFR34UCogRhR_7HaPXS4Sd8lYllzIhhHrSWe-gCDw/s640/Sutton+Blouse+%25289%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Lastly, thank you so much to everyone reading, commenting, emailing, and following the contest. The comments on my blog are what inspire me to keep blogging, and everyone's support has meant so much to me throughout the competition!<br />
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Here's to many, many more years of sewing!</div>
Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-13854898747043312942015-08-21T21:33:00.001-07:002015-08-21T21:33:12.862-07:00SOSM Round Five: The Cascade Duffle CoatTwo months after sending in my audition email for the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/super-online-sewing-match-ii-everything-you-need-to-know/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>, I still can't quite believe that I made it to the final round! This round's challenge was the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/products/cascade-duffle-coat" target="_blank">Cascade Duffle Coat</a> by Grainline Studio.<br />
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I'll admit that I may have panicked a little bit when I found out... I've always wanted to sew a coat (my current wool coat needs replacing), but I imagined that it would be a summer-long project, not a week-long project! I also had no idea what I would do for fabric, and figured that I would probably have wait for shipping to Canada and get a late start. We were given a gift certificate to <a href="http://www.fabricdepot.com/" target="_blank">Fabric Depot</a> to use, but as with the other challenges, shipping to Canada would have taken longer than is practical when you only have just over a week to sew.<br />
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To my complete surprise, I visited the local quilting store where I've been able to buy notions, and found that they had some nice wool coating literally tucked away in a corner! It looked like it had probably been there a looooong time (it was quite dusty), but I was so happy and so excited that I didn't care. I decided on this teal wool and mohair coating which is cozy, thick, and really nice quality. Mohair is one of the warmest wools out there so this should be great for Montreal! I'm not sure it'll get me through January and February, but that's what my down coat is for.<br />
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Before buying the wool, I went home and thought about design. Like most Grainline patterns, I liked the pattern, but it wasn't really my style. I knew that I would want to make the shorter version, since a longer boxy coat would overwhelm my small frame. I experimented with making it a little more A-line and adding a box pleat at the back, similar to shorter swing coats from the 50's.<br />
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I really wanted to use buttons because I knew I wouldn't be able to find leather for toggles, but to have a functional button closure, I would have needed to add another band to the front, which would make it too bulky. Instead, I made button closures from leather cord. I changed the pockets so that I could get my hands into them more easily, and I added decorative buttons tabs to those as well.<br />
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The last thing I couldn't decide on was whether my coat should have a hood or a collar - I love a good collar, but I've been caught in far too many Montreal storms to deny the practicality of a hood. So, I made both! The hood is removable, and attaches with snaps underneath the hood. I made the collar a little smaller to accommodate the hood, and a little rounder, out of preference. The finished coat is a little retro, a little modern, and super practical!<br />
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When I bought the wool, I found some black silk lining hidden in all the polyester. I love silk lining because it adds extra warmth, and just feels amazing to wear! I would have preferred gray to match the leather cord, but they only had black and white. I was really happy with the leather cord and buttons that I found, though! They have such a random collection of notions at this store, but it worked out well this round. They only had three colours of metal zippers, but the light green zipper tape with silver teeth looked nice, so I went with it.<br />
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I also chose some flannel to line the pockets and hood, and to use for the zipper band. It's a charcoal gray and light green herringbone, but looks gray from a distance. It matches the leather cord nicely, and up close, the green goes well with the teal (and is pretty close to the zipper band). It makes the pockets and hood so much cozier!<br />
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I made a muslin to test the fit around the shoulders, because with the more flared shape, I wanted it to fit really well there, so it wouldn't look too big everywhere. I found that it fit quite well with very little adjustment, which is really nice! To make the A-line shape, I placed the back piece 1 1/2" away from the fold, to allow for a box pleat, and I slashed and spread the front piece, then re-traced the armhole shape. I thought I might have to shorten it, but I actually lengthened the sleeves 1/2"! I think that's a first for me. I think they ended up just the right length, and so did the coat - it's short enough to be flattering, but long enough that it'll cover my sweaters.<br />
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To modify the pockets, I first removed the extra that gets folded under when they're sewn as instructed, then folded under a corner of the pattern piece. I then drew in where I wanted the button tab, and made a pattern piece that size plus a seam allowance and a little extra for turn of cloth. When I sewed them, I sandwiched the tab in between the main fabric and lining, and sewed along the diagonal, reinforcing the seam with the selvedge of my silk lining, sinc I didn't have any twill tape handy. I understitched, then sewed the other edges, leaving an opening at the bottom, and then turned it right side out. When I attached it to the coat, I made little bar tacks at the edges of the opening, for strength. I made them narrow enough that they sink right into the wool and blend with the topstitching, but they're there!<br />
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I ran into a bit of trouble attaching the zipper, when I realized that the recommended zipper and zipper band didn't fit my coat! I went back to the pattern pieces, and the button band is indeed longer than the front band for the size 0, unless I made some mistake somewhere and was supposed to take a larger seam allowance on the zipper band or something. I had to unpick it and shorten my zipper, then I added bar tacks on either side to prevent the zipper pull from coming off. This did set me back a little and I actually emailed Jen about it - I could have made a mistake with it somewhere, but it could also be a problem just with the size 0, since the coat does get a little shorter with every size.<br />
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Making the button closures was a little fiddly, but I'm so happy with them! It was a lot of trial and error - I figured out the right length to make the loops, but I had to twist them in precisely the right way before sewing the loop shut so that they would lie flat once I made the twists. I couldn't pin the leather, so I used a glue basting stick to hold everything in place before I could stitch it. I wanted them to be really secure and lie flat, so I stitched them to the coat at every point the leather overlapped itself.<br />
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I added some matching twisted leather cord to the button tabs as well, so that they would match. They're completely decorative, but I love the little detail!<br />
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I actually originally added similar button tabs to the sleeves as well, but once I tried on the coat for the first time, I just didn't like them. They were too much! There was enough detail on the body of the coat, and with so much flare, having something at the ends of the sleeves just looked odd. The fabric is also super thick, and I found them to be quite bulky and annoying to wear. So, off they went!<br />
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I also made shoulder pads out of cotton batting to add, but found the same thing. Maybe I just made them too thick, but with so much volume at the bottom of the coat, they were just way too much. With the heavy fabric, though, the sleeve looked like it needed some support, so instead, I drafted sleeve heads for them. What a difference! They're subtler than a shoulder pad but make the shoulder sit so much more nicely.<br />
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I sewed the collar as suggested, but I had to modify the hood a little to make it removable. I initially made it longer because it would be sitting below where it would if it were sewn in, but it ended up too big so I trimmed off the extra I added. I sewed it mostly according to the instructions, except that I attached the snaps, then sewed the bottom shut, leaving an opening to turn it right side out. I only attached the snaps to the lining, after interfacing the places where I would attach them, so that they wouldn't show when I was wearing the hood. To get the placement right, I pinned the collar on so that it sat nicely, marked the places I pinned it on both the hood and the coat, and then attached the snaps. After attaching the snaps to the hood, I topstitched about 3/4" from the edge to give them some stability.<br />
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Attaching the snaps to the coat was a little terrifying! The outer coat was completely sewn at this point, and with the brand of snaps that I was using, you have to punch a hole in the fabric first, so there's no going back! I figured that if it didn't work out, they would be hidden under the collar and I just wouldn't mention them... but, they worked really well! The hood sits so nicely and comes off easily (but not too easily!).<br />
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After that, I was finished with all the changes that I wasn't sure would work out, so I followed the instructions a little more closely. I'd never sewn a bagged lining before, and while I was attaching it, I was convinced that it wouldn't work. It just seems so bizarre while you're sewing it, and then you start turning it right side out, and all of a sudden you have an (almost) finished coat!<br />
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Once I finished, I couldn't quite believe what I had just made. I think it looks so professional, and it's definitely one of the most involved sewing projects I've ever finished - possibly even more so than my grad dress, and I spent months on that!<br />
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Over the course of this contest, I've learned so much, and I've made five amazing garments that I'm so proud of. I've tried some patterns that I probably wouldn't have picked on my own, and I've learned to modify them to suit my style - it's made me so much more confident in my sewing!<br />
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Thanks for reading! Be sure to have a look at <a href="http://sewspoiled.blogspot.ca/2015/08/fur-trimmed-cascade-duffle-coat-round.html" target="_blank">Leah's</a> and <a href="http://www.dandeliondrift.com/2015/08/21/cascade-duffle-coat/" target="_blank">Teresa's</a> coats as well - they're both beautiful! And keep an eye on Sew Mama Sew for a showcase on Saturday, with the winner announced on Tuesday.<br />
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Lastly, another huge thank you to Micheal from <a href="http://www.photoflow.ca/" target="_blank">Photoflow</a>, a family friend, for taking these photos for me!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com59tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-76416302442815348622015-08-06T20:58:00.000-07:002015-08-07T10:21:01.811-07:00SOSM Round Four: The Carolyn PajamasI'm going to remember this as the project where all my sewing equipment failed me! Cutting everything out took frustratingly long (I'm still not used to not having a rotary cutter!), then my machine kept eating my fabric, the tension just wouldn't cooperate, and the threads kept getting tangled. It also decided that it only wanted to do two stitch lengths: either quite small (about 1.5 mm) or medium (about 3 mm), which meant that basting (and removing it) took quite a while.<br />
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I was already behind and definitely feeling the pressure of the deadline, and then to top things off, <a href="https://instagram.com/p/5-gJomqJB0/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">my iron died on me</a>. Fantastic.<br />
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My parents were visiting during this challenge, which was both good and bad in this situation. The bad part was that they were out hiking and had taken the car that I drive, so I was stuck without an iron until they came back (I was actually considering biking to the hardware store when it started pouring rain). The good news, at least, was that they were happy to go to the store for me to buy a new iron once they got back, so I was able to stay home and focus on my project.<br />
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Technology issues aside, I really enjoyed this round of the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/super-online-sewing-match-ii-everything-you-need-to-know/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>, the <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/products/carolyn-pajamas" target="_blank">Carolyn Pajamas</a> by Closet Case Patterns. I really loved the pattern as-is, so unlike other rounds, there wasn't anything I really wanted to change. Instead, I focused on construction - I underlined everything and used the underlining to finish the seams, I replaced nearly all the topstitching with hand sewing, I made my buttonholes by hand, and I added covered buttons to match the piping. The result is a couple of the most well made garments I've ever finished! It's almost a shame that they're just pajamas... although I should point out that there's something very indulgent about making pajamas this nice!<br />
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I cut out a size 0 top, grading to a 4 at the hips, and size 4 shorts. I knew that I wanted to make the shorts and short-sleeved top, because I have way more winter pajamas than I ever wear, but in the summer, I sleep in a pair of Disney boxer shorts that I bought in Disneyland 4 years ago... all summer long. Needless to say, I really did need a new pair of summer pajamas!<br />
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I made a muslin, and the fit of the top was great, but I did have to fiddle with the shorts a little. I raised the rise 1", so that they sit at a more comfortable place for me (although I'm short, my waist is really high on my torso, and I don't find anything sitting low on my hips very comfortable). I lengthened the crotch seam 1/4", then I carved 3/8" out of the seam to make more of a "J" shape in both the front and the back. I'm pretty new to fitting pants, but I've had to do the same adjustment before, so this may become a standard alteration for me.<br />
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The fabric is a silk and cotton blend voile that I bought in Calgary, the nearest big city (it's just over an hour's drive from Canmore, where I'm staying). Finding it was a bit of an adventure... first we went to a place called Fabric Depot, which looks a lot better online than it really is. It was almost entirely home decor fabric, so I didn't see anything that was even close to what I was looking for. My mom asked if they had any rayon and the guy there didn't even seem to know what we meant!<br />
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The nicest fabric store in Calgary is a place called Olga's, but unfortunately we were too late in the day to make it there before they closed. In slight desperation, we went to the nearest Fabricland, which I usually avoid because I've never really had any luck there. I did manage to find this fabric, though, which I didn't love at first, but once it was away from the store and the other fabric there, I liked it a lot more! As the pajamas came together, I realized how perfect it was for them. It's bolder than I would wear normally, but I absolutely love the print and the colours.<br />
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Since it was fairly sheer, I chose to underline everything. I couldn't find a similar weight fabric that was white, but I did find a light yellow cotton voile that matched quite well and took care of the sheerness. Since I don't have a serger, I'm experimenting with different seam finishes, and this was the perfect time to try a seam finish I've been wanting to try for a while - flatlining! Basically, you cut the underlining larger, and wrap it around the raw edges of the main fabric. I followed <a href="http://www.cashmerette.com/2014/03/tutorial-finish-underlining-and-seams.html" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> at Cashmerette for the basic technique.<br />
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The only problem with this technique is you can't use it for all the seams because you can't deal with corners (I tried a couple different ways of approaching this, with no luck). I considered finishing the other seams with bias binding or French seams, but both of these would have been too bulky with the underlining. Instead, I finished some of the edges with flatlining first (the side seams, the shoulder seams, and the underarm seams), stitched in the ditch at the ends of the seams to secure it (I didn't find that I needed to stitch in the ditch along the whole seam, as the two cotton fabrics stuck together pretty well), and then turned it inside out again. I then sewed the main fabric and the underlining together with a 1/8" seam allowance, clipped the corners, turned it right side out, and pressed. This way, all my finished edges had a 1/2" seam allowance (you lose 1/8" with the flatlining technique). It made for more rounded corners, but they're inside in the seam allowance so it's not a problem (you can see this at the edge of the shoulder seam above).<br />
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The edges that would be later enclosed by a cuff or facing, I didn't finish, but I did finish the bottom edges of the pockets with French seams.<br />
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The only thing I probably should have done differently was how I finished the fly - I finished the vertical edge with flatlining, and then the bottom edge I sewed the two layers together. This made the fly look rounded with a bit of a wrinkle, so I probably should have just made it rounded anyways, since I made my topstitching at the fly rounded.<br />
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Overall, though, I love this finish, and I really want to use it again sometime soon! It's a great alternative to a full lining if you're worried about a fabric being sheer. The only problem was that it took ages - I really underestimated how much time it would take to underline everything! It was only my second time underlining anything (the first time was <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/the-grad-dress-part-iv-finished-dress.html" target="_blank">my grad dress</a>), and I forgot how long it takes.<br />
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I used the same fabric for piping and covered buttons, which are accents that I absolutely love. After <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/07/sosm-round-three-caravan-tote.html" target="_blank">my Caravan Tote</a>, I was really anxious to use piping on something else!<br />
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Since my underlining was yellow, I knew that the pieces that were interfaced with white interfacing might look a little brighter than the rest. So, I tried tea-dyeing again! I remembered from making samples for my Marianne dress that rooibos tea, despite often being called "red tea", gives a yellowish colour when using it to dye. I made a batch, then put it in an ice bath to cool it down, and let the interfacing sit in it for about a half hour. I rinsed it in cool water, then dried it on low heat for few minutes. It's not a perfect colour match, but it's close enough that the main fabric looks the same colour from the right side.<br />
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Issues with my machine and my iron aside, putting this set together went pretty smoothly. I left the topstitching along the cuffs and other piped edges for last, because I wasn't yet sure how I wanted to finish them. My original idea was to do some sort of decorative hand embroidery parallel to the piping.<br />
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Once I made some samples, I had decided on a blanket stitch along the piping, done in coordinating yellow embroidery thread. I knew that for the breast pocket, I would want to topstitch it first for strength, but once I had topstitched it, I really didn't like the way it looked. I've never been a big fan of topstitching, and I found that it was just too much with the floral print and the piping. I realized that if I thought topstitching in matching blue thread was too much, what would I think of the hand embroidery? I decided then to leave off any topstitching or embroidery stitches, and instead to secure the cuffs with slipstitching for an invisible finish.<br />
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Rather than topstitching around the collar, I catchstitched the two layers together just outside the seam allowance. This enclosed the seam allowance and secured the two layers together.<br />
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The pocket was a little tricker - I knew that the topstitching would make it more secure, but I really didn't like how it looked. But, being honest, I will probably never use this pocket (except for tissues or hair elastics) when there are bigger pockets in the shorts. I don't think I've ever used a breast pocket in a shirt before, so for me they're purely decorative! So, I unpicked the topstitching on the pocket, then slipstitched it in place, making the stitches closer together than I usually would, and tacking the corners with very small whipstiches that I managed to hide pretty well. It's surprisingly strong!<br />
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I also raised the pocket 1", and moved it 1/2" farther from the centre. It just seemed to hit at an awkward spot on me!<br />
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I sewed the hem by hand, which is completely invisible because I only caught the underlining.<br />
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The last problem I ran into was buttonholes. My sewing machine, like many, is a little finicky when it comes to buttonholes. Sometimes they turn out fine, and sometimes they're disastrous! This fabric is much too light for bound buttonholes, but then I remembered <a href="http://bygumbygolly.com/2013/09/buttonholes-by-hand-vintage-sewing/" target="_blank">this post</a> at By Gum, By Golly on hand-worked buttonholes. This seemed like a perfect project to try this technique! There are only 5 buttonholes, and if they ended up looking terrible, at least they were only pajamas, right?<br />
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As it turns out, they turned out really well! I might never do buttonholes by machine again. They're not perfect, but that's the beauty of hand sewing. Not to mention, the moment I started on the buttonholes (right after my iron died), all my frustration at my iron and my sewing machine seemed to fade away. Hand sewing is so relaxing!<br />
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As someone who used to be an extreme perfectionist, I love that I can appreciate the beauty of creating buttonholes by hand. Although I love the precision and concentration required to make the tiny stitches even and tidy, they're not all identical, but that's because I'm human and not a sewing machine. These buttonholes were made by my own hands, and a needle and some silk thread, and I'm so proud of them!<br />
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For next time, I'd love to get my hands on some buttonhole twist, which everyone seems to recommend, but there was no chance of me finding in time. I just used two strands of silk thread, which worked reasonably well, although something thick enough to only use one strand would probably have worked better.<br />
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I'm so proud of these pajamas - as I said earlier, they're probably two of the highest quality garments I've ever made! I only took the photos this morning, so I haven't slept in them yet, but I can't wait. The silk/cotton blend is so light and soft!<br />
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The pattern is fabulous, and I'm really tempted to make a flannel pair in the fall, despite already having lots of fall and winter pajamas. I'd love having a coordinating set, though!<br />
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Special thanks to my parents for putting up with my sewing mess everywhere and my frustration at technology while they were visiting. Thanks also to my mom for taking photos for me!<br />
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I should also add that my machine seems to be working fine again. I'm not sure if it just didn't like the fabric, or if it was just having a bad couple of days, but it seems to be fine now, thank goodness!<br />
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To see the other entries, check out <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a> tomorrow. Thanks for reading!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-8117747673446181532015-07-23T10:48:00.001-07:002015-07-23T10:48:59.966-07:00SOSM Round Three: The Caravan ToteThis was the first challenge of the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/super-online-sewing-match-ii-everything-you-need-to-know/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a> that I felt out of my element for, the <a href="http://www.noodle-head.com/product/caravan-tote-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Caravan Tote</a> by Noodlehead. I'd never made a bag before, so this was completely new to me! My seam ripper was very well used over the course of making this bag, and you'll see a lot of phrases along the lines of <i>"I was planning to do this, but it didn't work so instead I did this..."</i><br />
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I also found it really difficult to make a plan for this bag, because I had never made one before. For the previous challenges, I knew exactly what I wanted to change in the patterns (the hem of the Sutton Blouse, the neckline of the Marianne dress), and from there, it was easy to come up with ideas for how to really make the patterns my own (the lace trim, the reverse applique).<br />
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For this project, I didn't have a lot of ideas at first! I started sketching and brainstorming, and eventually decided that I would change up the contrast pocket, use piping, and add removable straps so that the bag could be worn as a backpack or with a shoulder strap.<br />
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To change the pocket a little, I rounded off the edges, and then split the pocket piece in two, added in a little wedge for an inverted box pleat to the lower piece, and added a seam allowance to both. I was originally planning to use (non-functional) covered buttons and magnetic snaps to close the pocket, but I'm glad I went with a snap in the end. With the new shape, it also seemed to make sense to just use one snap rather than two.<br />
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I was pretty confident at first that I'd have lots of fabric to choose from at the local quilting store, but my first trip there to look around was a little disappointing. They do have <a href="https://instagram.com/p/5Q4zIsqJNQ/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">lots of selection</a>, but of different kinds of quilting cottons than what I was expecting. I'm used to the modern designs by companies like Birch, and Cotton + Steel, whereas the fabric they have is definitely more traditional. There just wasn't anything that jumped out at me!<br />
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I wanted to steer clear of the novelty prints (for once) - I was after something modern and versatile. Since this was my first time making a bag, I wanted it to be something I would get a lot of use out of! I also didn't want it to scream "handmade" like it might have if I used a fun novelty print.<br />
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I also really wanted to use leather for the straps, but there was no chance of buying any locally!<br />
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When I returned the next day, I decided to have another look through their (very limited) garment fabrics, and I found some stripes that were exactly what I was after for the contrast! The fabric is a medium weight twill, and it was right next to some denim. I realized then that a dark denim would be perfect - neutral and versatile, but with more texture than a solid quilting cotton.<br />
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For piping, I picked a dark red cotton with some beige and dark green spots, which I thought would add a bit of colour, yet keep the bag versatile (dark red seems to go with everything!). I used the same fabric for lining, with a coordinating floral print for the inner pockets. I decided that three different prints were enough, even though I could have picked out more different prints for different pockets and lining pieces.<br />
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I was able to find most of the notions I needed, although not necessarily in the right sizes, so I had to make some adjustments. They only had three colours of metal zippers - white, light green, or brown - and the one that I thought would match best, the brown one, was 2" too short. I didn't want to use a plastic one, so instead I just made the tabs on either side of the zipper 1" longer.<br />
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Because the denim was quite a bit heavier than a quilting cotton, I skipped the light woven interfacing, and used only the heavier non-woven interfacing (the pattern recommends both). For the striped fabric, though, I used both, since it was a little lighter. Because I knew the seams would get bulky, I cut the non-woven interfacing so that it wouldn't be caught in the seam allowances. I also graded the seams a lot, although the pattern doesn't suggest this.<br />
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I got about as far as basting in the zipper when I realized that the piping wasn't going to work. It was far too bulky, and looked a little ridiculous! The cord that was recommended at the quilting store might work for piping on quilts, but for this bag, it was just too thick. I wanted it to be really narrow and subtle, so I unpicked everything I'd done so far, took out the cord, and used it like flat piping, so that it would extend around 1/8" from the seam (less around the zipper, a little more around the pocket and even more at the back seam). I love how this looks! It's super subtle but adds a little interest.<br />
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The next hitch came when I was sewing the front pocket flap. I was clipping the corners, and I cut right through my stitching and the piping by accident - whoops! That's the first time I've ever done that, and of course I couldn't fix it because I'd cut right through the piping. This was a lucky mistake, though, because when I re-cut the pieces, I changed the shape a little more, and I'm much happier with the second one! I also cut the underside from plain cream-coloured fabric, like I did for the pocket, so that the stripes wouldn't show through.<br />
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I originally planned to add a box pleat to the denim part of the back, but after cutting it out and interfacing it, I realized that it wouldn't be very comfortable as a backpack, so I cut another. The denim was quite wide, so I had plenty left over.<br />
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The removable straps weren't quite as easy an addition as I was hoping. I bought some D-rings and swivel rings with clips (which were the priciest part of the bag, at $5 apiece, and I needed 6 of them!).<br />
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For the backpack straps, I cut interfaced triangles, then sewed them together on the diagonal edge with some of the fabric I used for piping sandwiched in the seam, attaching the D-ring. I sandwiched this in the bottom of the side seam, and then when I sewed the corners, I caught the other raw edge in the bottom seam (hard to explain - I should have taken a picture!). That was probably the hardest part of the construction, because it was super awkward to deal with the mostly sewn, heavily interfaced bag at this point. I also couldn't get any pins through the multiple interfaced layers of denim! It took me lots of tries and unpicking to get it right, but I'm so happy with the result.<br />
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To attach the backpack straps at the top of the back, I simply added in some D-rings where the straps are attached, on the outside of the straps. It was tricky enough to sew through all the layers (4 layers of denim, 5 layers of quilting cotton, and interfaced twill!), so I was really glad I didn't use denim to attach the D-rings.<br />
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The shoulder strap was considerably easier. I just attached a D-ring on either side, centered over the side seam. Easy peasy!<br />
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To make the straps, I used the same strap piece that comes with the pattern, but made it longer for the shoulder strap, and shorter for the backpack straps. I had to taper the ends a little to fit the swivel rings, which were only 3/4". I turned under the raw edges and stitched them down, then looped them through the rings and stitched them down again. Denim maybe wasn't the best choice for this - I had to hammer the seams to flatten them, and my machine had a really difficult time getting through the 12 (!) layers of denim.<br />
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I hoped to make the straps adjustable, but I couldn't find the sliders (I think that's what they're called?) in the right size. At least, since they're removable, I can always make adjustable straps later with the leftover denim, once I find the right size.<br />
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Another little change that I had to make was to omit the grommets as yarn guides on the inner pocket, since I couldn't find any that were the right size. Instead, I made a little loop from the lining fabric and sewed it into the seam at the top of the pocket (you can see it if you look closely at the photo above, on the right of the pocket).<br />
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I also made the matching pouch, which I knew I would use because I have one that's similar, and it's super worn out. I use it in all my big bags to keep little things (lip balm, notes, pens, sunscreen) together. This one is a perfect replacement! I didn't have enough of the quilting cotton left for lining (I barely had enough to piece together some piping), so instead I used the striped fabric. For the zipper, I used a navy vintage one from my stash, since there was only one of the brown metal zippers at the quilt store. I also changed the shape of the pocket to match, although it was too small to ad a box pleat to.<br />
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I feel like I really surprised myself with this bag! I really couldn't visualize what it would look like when made up, but I'm so happy with the end result. I think it looks really professional! Every time I look at it, I can't quite believe that I made it myself.<br />
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(Also, did you notice my stripe matching? This was my second time ever matching a pattern, and first time matching stripes. I'm so pleased with it! Now I want to sew with ALL the stripes...)<br />
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I think this will become the bag that I take <i>everywhere</i> with me this summer. I love backpacks because your bag is out of the way, and they're far easier to wear when cycling than purses, but I don't like having to take them off every time you need something. This way, I can carry it like a tote bag when I need things from it, and if I want it out of the way, I can just clip on the backpack straps, tuck in the handles, and wear it that way as well!<br />
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I also love that it's designed for knitting, with knitting needle pockets and a yarn guide. I'll use it for much more than knitting, but it's nice to know I don't have to worry about losing my knitting needles!<br />
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All in all, I'm so incredibly happy with it. I've wanted to sew a bag for ages, so I'm really glad that this contest gave me that little push I needed to actually do it. I feel like this will be the first of many bags... now I have my eye on the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/sewing/cooper" target="_blank">Colette Cooper</a> bag, or something a little smaller, for going out (the only time I don't want to carry a huge bag!).<br />
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To see everyone else's take on the pattern, head on over to <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a>, where they'll showcase all the entries tomorrow!<br />
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<i>In this post...</i><br />
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<b>Bag:</b> Me-made (<a href="http://www.noodle-head.com/product/caravan-tote-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Caravan Tote</a> by Noodlehead)<br />
<b>Blouse:</b> <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-muumuu-refashioned-into.html" target="_blank">Me-made</a> (<a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/pendrell-blouse/" target="_blank">Sewaholic Pendrell</a>)<br />
<b>Jeans:</b> RTW (Guess)<br />
<b>Belt:</b> Thrifted<br />
<b>Shoes:</b> Second-hand (Sperry)Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-49313545622455641642015-07-12T18:39:00.004-07:002015-07-12T19:53:33.728-07:00SOSM Round Two: The Marianne DressThanks to everyone for the wonderful comments on my <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/sosm-round-1-sutton-blouse.html" target="_blank">Sutton Blouse</a> for the first round of the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/super-online-sewing-match-ii-everything-you-need-to-know/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>! If you follow me on <a href="https://instagram.com/p/4sKtAVKJNt/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">Instagram</a> or if you follow <a href="http://sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a>, you may have seen that I made it through the first round, and that the second challenge was the <a href="http://www.christinehaynes.com/products/marianne-dress-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Marianne Dress</a> by Christine Haynes.<br />
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If you've been following this blog for a while, you'll know that I love a good knit dress. I taught myself to sew with knits just over a year ago with <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-colette-moneta-dress-with-tie.html" target="_blank">my first Moneta dress</a> - before that, my attempts at sewing with knits had been unsuccessful and downright frustrating, so I avoided them as much as I could. After that first Moneta, though, I really learned to love them! I made Monetas numbers <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/07/completed-colette-moneta-dress-60s-style.html" target="_blank">two</a>, three (unblogged), and <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/completed-maroon-colette-moneta-dress.html" target="_blank">four</a>, as well as the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-sewaholic-davie-dress-perfect.html" target="_blank">Sewaholic Davie dress</a>, the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-muse-natalie-dress.html" target="_blank">Muse Natalie dress</a>, and countless knit tops.<br />
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So, I was really excited at first when I saw that the second challenge was a knit dress! I had also been curious about trying the shift dress silhouette for a while now, even though I usually prefer more fitted bodices and more flared skirts. The Marianne dress, though, looked like it could be a really versatile and wearable dress, so I was eager to try it.<br />
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My only worry about this challenge was that it could be too easy! I had plenty of patterned knit fabric in my stash that would be great for this dress, and I probably could have put it together in a few hours had I not modified the pattern. But, it is a sewing contest after all, and part of the reason I entered was to motivate myself to take on some more challenging projects. This project just needed something <i>more</i>, and it took me a little while to come up with a plan.<br />
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In the meantime, I printed the pattern (at the library again), and cut a size 0 at the bust, 2 at the waist, and 4 at the hips. I knew that the pattern had enough ease that a straight size 0 probably would have been fine, but I figured it was easier to take it in than let it out.<br />
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I made a shirt-length wearable muslin out of some patterned jersey that I had tons of. I'm really glad I did! I found it a little snug everywhere, despite cutting out the size that should have given me plenty of ease. I thought that this was a little odd, but just added on 1/2" on either side at the bust and a couple inches onto the sleeves, and moved on. I also widened the neckline significantly, which I find is more flattering on me than a crewneck.<br />
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The idea for how I could make this much more than a simple knit dress came from <a href="http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/" target="_blank">Laura Mae</a>, whose fabulous vintage-inspired garments and sewing skills I've always admired. A few months ago, she posted an amazing <a href="http://www.lauramaedesigns.com/2015/04/applique.html" target="_blank">Alabama Chanin-inspired outfit</a>, a skirt and jacket made of two layers of cotton jersey reverse appliqued together.<br />
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After remembering this outfit, I spent some time looking through some Alabama Chanin (and Alabama Chanin-inspired) pieces online, and I decided that I really loved the idea of reverse applique around the neckline of this dress. With that in mind, I decided on a short-sleeved, collarless version, to let the applique stand out.<br />
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I had the perfect fabric for the main body of the dress, a dark purple ponte knit that I got when I volunteered at <a href="https://oursocialfabric.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Our Social Fabric</a>. It was great for this dress - it's so soft and doesn't feel super synthetic like some ponte knits do (although it probably does have some nylon or poly content, as ponte knits do). It was solid enough that it was a dream to sew with, but drapey enough to be flattering.<br />
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The tougher question was what to use for the contrast! I had some patterned jersey in my stash, but decided immediately that they would be too busy. I considered using some lace that I had, but it was really scratchy and I didn't think it would be comfortable around the neckline. Since shipping to Canada takes too long, online shopping wasn't really an option, and the local quilting and sewing store only had nothing, I had to work with what solid knit I had in my stash, which was a small amount of some off-white bamboo jersey.<br />
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I thought that the off-white would be too high-contrast for what I was planning, though. I was planning a leaf pattern, and I wanted something a little softer. So, I tried <a href="https://instagram.com/p/4xiOJ7KJEm/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank">dyeing the fabric with tea</a>! After making some samples with coffee and a couple different kinds of tea, I liked the colour from black tea best. I made a large pot of pretty strong tea on the stovetop, let the fabric sit in it for about 20 minutes, then rinsed it in cool water and dried it. I didn't think it was quite dark enough, though, so I tried again, making the tea a little stronger this time. Still, not dark enough... the next morning, I added another five tea bags, kept the water simmering, and let the fabric sit in it for about two hours, while I worked away on the design that I wanted. Finally, I was happy with how dark it was, and cut out the dress!<br />
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Instead of using the neck binding, I made a facing/partial lining to finish the neckline and the sleeves out of the contrasting jersey. To do this, I simply cut out the upper part of the dress, trimmed all the edges 1/8" to make it slightly smaller, and sewed it so that the seams would be concealed, but the right side of the fabric would be facing the wrong side of the ponte, so that it would show through when I did the reverse applique. I made it quite long on purpose, because I wasn't yet sure how I would finish it.<br />
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I made this on a regular machine, since I'm not living at home anymore, so I can't use my mom's serger. This is the second knit dress that I've made on a regular machine, and I'm getting the hang of sewing knits without a serger! It's a little more work, but it's surprisingly neat, and gives a little more control. I didn't finish the edges of the ponte because it didn't roll, but I did finish the jersey edges with a medium zigzag.<br />
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I started by sewing the shoulder seams, adding clear elastic, pressing them open to reduce bulk, and then basting the side seams to check the fit. Well, I had a bit of a problem! By extending the sleeves, I had made the armholes so small that I couldn't get my arms through them! I ended up taking off everything that I had added on under the arm, and leaving the sleeves an inch longer than they originally were, rather than the couple of inches that I had added. I also noticed that the dress was considerably shorter than what the finished measurements said it would be... strange!<br />
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It wasn't until I cleaned up the scraps of paper I cut away from the pattern that I realized why. I saw the 4" square and measured it, finding it to be only 3 7/8"! I've never had a problem with my printer scaling patterns before, but I suppose the library printer must have scaled it. I didn't have a ruler with me, so I never even bothered to check! It's amazing how much of a difference that 1/8" can make. Ah, I felt so stupid!<br />
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By the time I realized this, there wasn't time to start over, so I just had to work with what I had. After removing some of the extra I added onto the sleeves, the armhole fit comfortably, and I'd already added onto the side seams, so it wasn't too much of a problem. Lesson learned, though! (And, my printer ink just arrived in the mail, so I shouldn't have this problem again!)<br />
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I unpicked the side seams, sewed the facing and the dress together at the neckline, and stabilized it with some clear elastic (without it, I find that wider knit necklines stretch out over time). I understitched for a nice edge, then sewed the side seams. I used <a href="https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/video-how-to-clean-finish-a-lined-armhole" target="_blank">this method</a> from the Moneta dress, to give a nice, clean finish when sewing the dress and the facing together at the armholes.<br />
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Next up was the most time-consuming part, the applique. I had worked out the designs and made a stencil from some cardboard while my fabric was dyeing, so I started by tracing the design onto the fabric with chalk. I then ran a line of long, running stitches around every leaf and stem, through both layers of fabric, about 3/16" from the chalk lines. Using embroidery scissors, because I was scared that I would cut too much using fabric scissors, I trimmed out the leaves and stems.<br />
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The whole process of hand sewing the applique around the neckline took me about 8 hours (the most hand sewing I've ever done in one sitting!), but I found it so satisfying. I loved the effect that it created, and with a good audiobook, the time went by quickly.<br />
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To finish the facing, I originally thought that I would just trim it around the stitching, but I was a little worried that doing so would make a ridge visible from the outside. Instead, I just trimmed a little off the bottom, zigzagged to stop it rolling, and tacked the seam allowances of the dress and the facing/lining together by hand. It ends just under the bust, where the dress is loose enough that it doesn't show.<br />
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In these inside-out photos, it was difficult to get it to lay flat, since the facing/lining is a little smaller than the dress, but it lies really nicely when worn, without any bunching up like there would be if the facing were the same size.<br />
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I was considering leaving the hem raw, since it was already on the short side, and I thought it would match nicely the raw edges of the applique. But, that just felt so anticlimactic! I actually love hemming as the final step in making anything, especially when I do it by hand. So, I pressed up 1/2" and catchstitched it by hand. This was my first time hemming a knit by hand, and I was a little worried that it wouldn't have enough stretch, but I was pleasantly surprised!<br />
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The most stressful part of this challenge was taking the photos! Unfortunately, the family friend that took the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/sosm-round-1-sutton-blouse.html" target="_blank">beautiful photos of my Sutton blouse</a> couldn't make it at the last minute, and it was too late to find anyone else to take some photos for me. It took me a few tries to get a decent set of self-timed photos, but I think they're passable. For me next project, though, I'll definitely find someone to take some photos for me - they turn out nicely when <strike>I don't have to duct tape a camera to a tree</strike> someone else takes them!<br />
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Overall, I'm so, so happy with how this dress turned out! It's so comfortable and easy to wear, and the shape surprisingly flattering. Despite being a little surprised at how short it ended up, I think I like the shorter length - it balances out the looser silhouette! I'm so proud of the reverse applique, and I think it was completely worth the time.<br />
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To see the other contestants' finished Marianne dresses, and to follow the rest of the contest, head on over to <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a>! I've already seen a few Mariannes up on the others' blogs, and it looks like it's going to be a tough competition - they're all so gorgeous!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-38470104391298924112015-06-30T10:06:00.003-07:002015-06-30T10:10:04.654-07:00SOSM Round One: The Sutton BlouseWhen I saw that the first challenge of the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/category/super-online-sewing-match/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a> was the <a href="http://shop.truebias.com/product/sutton-blouse" target="_blank">Sutton Blouse</a> by True Bias, I wasn't sure what to think at first! It's not a pattern that I would have picked out on my own, but I can see why they chose it for the first round. It's simple enough, but perfect as a blank slate to make your own.<br />
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It was only the first morning of the competition, though, and I had already run into a problem. The contestants were generously provided with a gift certificate to <a href="http://www.hartsfabric.com/" target="_blank">Hart's Fabrics</a> to cover the cost of the project, but as is always the case, shipping from the US to Canada takes far too long for this to be an option for me. In Canmore, there's a great quilting store where I'm able to buy all the notions that I need for my sewing projects, but their supply of garment fabrics is very limited, and I couldn't find anything to work with there.<br />
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The only fabric I had in my stash that I thought would work was this rayon from Cotton + Steel's Frock collection, which I had bought at Spool of Thread in Vancouver while I was there in May. I didn't think that I had enough, though - I had just over half of what the pattern called for!<br />
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I ran into my second problem that evening after work, when the printer where I'm staying decided that it had printed enough PDF patterns, and ran out of ink. It was 6:10... every printing store in Canmore had closed 10 minutes ago! I thought that I was stuck until the next day after work, until I realized that the public library would have printers that you could pay to use. Phew!<br />
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I printed the pattern scaled to 90%, because I'm smaller than the size 0, and a bit of math told me that the size 2 would be perfect when scaled like this. I cut out a muslin in this size, and the fit was great! The only alteration I made was to take out a little of the yoke seam in the back, toward the outer edge of the back piece. I know that the style is supposed to be loose, but it just seemed like there was a little too much excess fabric there.<br />
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I then laid out the pattern pieces over this rayon, and miraculously, they fit if I cut everything on a single layer! I wouldn't have much to play around with for pattern matching, but at least I had something.<br />
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Speaking of pattern matching, this was the first time I ever tried it! Throw in a super shifty fabric and some French seams, and it wasn't long before I wondered what I had gotten myself into. Cutting this out took an entire evening!<br />
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To make it a little easier, I traced the pattern onto Swedish tracing paper and drew in the stitching lines, so that I could see where the print would hit the seams through the pattern pieces. I also traced the pieces that were supposed to be cut on the fold twice, so that I could cut everyone on one layer.<br />
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I started with the front pieces, since I decided that the centre front seam was the most important to match. I cut everything out very, very carefully and slowly, and staystitched all the edges before cutting the next piece - I wasn't taking any chances with this stretching out! Once I had all the front pieces cut out, I basted them together by hand to make sure the pattern matched... and it did!<br />
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I realized pretty quickly that pattern matching wasn't possible anywhere else, although I think I did a decent job of at least lining up the diamonds in a straight horizontal line at the side seams, and in a straight vertical line at the centre back. Because the the width of the pieces, and the angled seams at the yoke, I couldn't really match anything else up.<br />
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I felt like this blouse would need a little something more to feel like 'me', so I spent some time rummaging through the notions at the quilt store, and I found this cotton lace trim that I thought would look nice sewn into the seams. I cut it in half, then basted it in place after sewing the first seam of the French seam, so that when I sewed the second seam, it was sandwiched in between the layers.<br />
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I also changed the hem a little, and made the edges rounded for a scalloped effect. I wanted to stay true to the pattern, and yet make it more wearable for my style. I love how this turned out!<br />
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I didn't have enough fabric to make bias binding out of the same fabric, so I used some white silk lining. This probably wasn't the best idea - I used the continuous bias tape method, and the fabric was so shifty and delicate that it took ages. I had never used this method before, and I ended up with a lot more bias tape than I was expecting!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISSH0jgdisUJOz99aBdV8Z0R_PYrY5DHXI85znWTIzxBNOsh7VwwUWzBI7LgjV_GPG-IPiHYYhqRbYtK1qbmDyFQYvwjXNJEfzwLdI5TnyTK8t0wG0l7q6sSzyrl1c49QeMjyB5PybKo/s1600/Sutton+Blouse+%25288%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISSH0jgdisUJOz99aBdV8Z0R_PYrY5DHXI85znWTIzxBNOsh7VwwUWzBI7LgjV_GPG-IPiHYYhqRbYtK1qbmDyFQYvwjXNJEfzwLdI5TnyTK8t0wG0l7q6sSzyrl1c49QeMjyB5PybKo/s640/Sutton+Blouse+%25288%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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When I attached the bias binding, I slipslitched it by hand rather than topstitching. I love the clean look of hand sewing, and I find it so satisfying!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eK7fxvr4x3reGHD2qFHwM3nhs35Xch0xUwElO86boDuzctkIGJyd9ghN-QBKi4dxuZiaIbE3HPuOmJOUYXne_QB3p9ibDTP7hKcpObPjFlvOAb9p3Vr9pTXpIZhyphenhyphenlF54rw4YzzNFtC0/s1600/Sutton+Blouse+%252816%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_eK7fxvr4x3reGHD2qFHwM3nhs35Xch0xUwElO86boDuzctkIGJyd9ghN-QBKi4dxuZiaIbE3HPuOmJOUYXne_QB3p9ibDTP7hKcpObPjFlvOAb9p3Vr9pTXpIZhyphenhyphenlF54rw4YzzNFtC0/s640/Sutton+Blouse+%252816%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I followed the instructions for the most part up until the side seams. They suggest hemming the sleeves and then sewing the side seams, but I prefer sewing the side seams first for a cleaner (and more comfortable) finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0VP6v_7J5YANLYwjmFgtYSV1RMDB9-PXYMkVfKk4ZF9nIAbMRdUKJ0g8Iw4_uZJZ0ReNOLwREWReFEgr46faTQlLjpUbr33NUMQOIUmd4HRFr5skA5cmvhoFkZRrDfVqBFmgbVqaO-0/s1600/Sutton+Blouse+%252817%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0VP6v_7J5YANLYwjmFgtYSV1RMDB9-PXYMkVfKk4ZF9nIAbMRdUKJ0g8Iw4_uZJZ0ReNOLwREWReFEgr46faTQlLjpUbr33NUMQOIUmd4HRFr5skA5cmvhoFkZRrDfVqBFmgbVqaO-0/s640/Sutton+Blouse+%252817%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Rather than turning under the edge, I hemmed the sleeves by hand with more of the silk bias binding, since I loved how the neckline looked. I originally planned to use more of the lace trim here, but after basting it in, I decided that it was too busy and took it out.<br />
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I used a French seam at the side seam since I have no serger, although the pattern doesn't suggest it because of the side slit. I just stopped right before the side slit, and then snipped the seam allowance so that it would lay flat and I could finish the edges of the side slit.<br />
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I sewed the side slit in a completely different way than the instructions suggest, since I made it rounded and wanted to use more of the lace trim around the edges. I started by basting in the lace trim, then attaching the bias binding, sandwiching the trim in between the two. When I turned the bias binding to the wrong side and sewed it by hand, the lace trim stuck out past the edge of the fabric. I finished the front and the back separately, and then finished the top edge of the slit with some more bias binding and hand stitched it down to secure it. (Looking at these photos, I realized that it needed another good press - those wrinkles at the top are now gone!)<br />
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I'm so proud of my finished blouse! Although the pattern isn't one I would have picked on my own, I think I really managed to make it suit my style, and I think I'll wear it tons. It also looks great tucked in, but it'll be so easy to just throw on over jeans - exactly the kind of top I need more of!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucjt571-y8evE3GY0QeTG4UY7PjGz9xWtOlGN3sYg4iRlhiDhQPHclgWP0j7w3MX06IokVRCoX73iuXy_n0UWgkX_yUUNZ5SG3ezMRpPSm6QUSjuNS7cBoE4LHS4Sw5wv1CF03p5W7Lo/s1600/Sutton+Blouse+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjucjt571-y8evE3GY0QeTG4UY7PjGz9xWtOlGN3sYg4iRlhiDhQPHclgWP0j7w3MX06IokVRCoX73iuXy_n0UWgkX_yUUNZ5SG3ezMRpPSm6QUSjuNS7cBoE4LHS4Sw5wv1CF03p5W7Lo/s640/Sutton+Blouse+%25284%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Despite the challenge of pattern matching this fabric, it worked out really well for this blouse. It's so drapey, but was surprisingly easy to sew with (or maybe that was just by comparison to the silk bias binding!). It's super soft and probably the nicest rayon I've ever worked with. It pressed beautifully, and any needle and pin marks pressed right out. I'm on a huge rayon kick right now, so I'm really tempted to try to find some more of it! It's pricier than a lot of other rayon (it cost more per metre than the silk I used for the binding!), but it was really worth it.<br />
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I should also point out the Kelli's instructions for the pattern are excellent and very clear - I love how cleanly the insides are finished. I would really recommend the pattern, and I'll probably be making more!<br />
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To see all the finished blouses for the first challenge, head on over to <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a> - I believe they'll be up by Wednesday!<br />
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Lastly, a HUGE thank you to Micheal from <a href="http://www.photoflow.ca/" target="_blank">Photoflow</a> for taking these amazing photos for me!<br />
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Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com43tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-13086085981160765862015-06-23T14:43:00.001-07:002015-06-23T16:00:01.865-07:00The Super Online Sewing Match II - I'm a Contestant!When I saw that <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/" target="_blank">Sew Mama Sew</a> was hosting another round of the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/the-super-online-sewing-match-ii-contest-sponsored-by-sew-mama-sew-janome/" target="_blank">Super Online Sewing Match</a>, and that they were accepting auditions, I thought I might as well send in an email and see what happened. Why not? I like participating in challenges, and the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/the-super-online-sewing-match-ii-grand-prize-package-sponsored-by-janome/" target="_blank">grand prize</a> of two Janome sewing machines is pretty tempting!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/meet-the-contestants-super-online-sewing-match-ii/" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://www.sewmamasew.com/blog2/june2015/SOSMII2.jpg" height="112" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/meet-the-contestants-super-online-sewing-match-ii/" target="_blank">Image source</a></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I wasn't really expecting to be chosen, but lo and behold, there was an email waiting for me this morning, saying that I had been picked as one of ten contestants!<br />
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I'm so, so excited to be a part of this. I've spent the past year working on creating lots of practical, wearable, and simpler pieces, but I feel like by now, a have a pretty good hold on my handmade wardrobe, and I'm looking to branch out to some more challenging projects. I think the contest will be perfect motivation to really challenge myself and get creative. I can't wait to see what the first challenge is - it's announced tomorrow!<br />
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Head on over to Sew Mama Sew to <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2015/06/meet-the-contestants-super-online-sewing-match-ii/" target="_blank">meet the other contestants</a>, and to follow the contest over the next couple of months!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-30064952833381038292015-06-19T18:50:00.002-07:002015-06-23T14:52:09.695-07:00So I Found This Thing Called Instagram...I'll admit that I've never been that much of a fan of social networking. I use my personal Facebook pretty much entirely for communication with groups (my dance group, my residence, my group of friends), and I've never before used Twitter, Instagram, or any of those other sites... until now!<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/3-enylKJG-/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMcY4HzBaa7cE7bOMLOFqdAiYsjyuaNrj9tpJTrfzocj_PPvElpFDg-sghAMPeEUvW7eZG3tJV5qcnOfZZTdtZEV4DJwSPbnCv-KvxYIFOGFu7bvb5BY0Fjwtnlj0ERhgxcrCHnb9ua0/s400/Instagram+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm not even going to count up how many years late I am to the party, but I finally decided the other day that I would make myself an Instagram account, and I'd love it if you'd follow me <a href="https://instagram.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">@youngseamstress</a>! There's not much there at the moment, but I'm looking forward to using it to share some progress on projects in between blog posts.<br />
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<a href="https://instagram.com/p/4CcQTeqJHG/?taken-by=youngseamstress" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_3j3UKEuhuxjLjRPRf2mUMPpsI1sm9a5Xvz0NslF7PPhb1TfGM56MrLINPOlXuylwMWZ1Ri83gbtRohMlNHaSW9-V6WFd8W4iofM316Z11C-9zrbcsZ5Aq5yFknm_dCm4gr5YiCqf4Hw/s400/Instagram+2.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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I've also started using my <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> account a little more lately - I've had ones for ages but never really used it until recently. <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/youngseamstress/" target="_blank">Follow me there</a>, too, if you like!<br />
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I've updated my social media buttons in my sidebar too - the original ones were a little small for my liking anyways! I'm still slowly working away at some graphics updates for the blog, bit by bit. I'll see how far I get!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-39807027877418516212015-06-14T09:59:00.000-07:002015-06-18T09:38:00.638-07:00Completed: Miz Mozelle 2-Piece SetWhen I bought this fabric, I was very, very torn. Dress, blouse, or skirt? It really begged to be made into a dress, but I knew that was I needed more at the moment was tops and skirts.<br />
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My solution? Make all three!<br />
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By making a 2-piece set, I could have something that <i>looked</i> like a dress, but I could just as easily wear the pieces separately.<br />
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The fabric is rayon twill that I bought from Plazatex in Montreal - it's a gem of a fabric store that's not in either of the fabric shopping districts, but instead near McGill. I found it while wandering around after moving into my apartment, but it's fantastic! It's a small store, but with lots of selection and plenty of notions. I'll be going there lots next year, now that I know about it!<br />
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It took me a while to decide on a pattern, since my initial idea was to use a blouse pattern and a skirt pattern, and the first ones that came to mind were the <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/pendrell-blouse/" target="_blank">Pendrell blouse</a> and the <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/hollyburn-skirt/" target="_blank">Hollyburn skirt</a> (two of my TNT patterns). But, I just didn't think that they would look like a dress when worn together. I spent some time looking online at 2-piece sets, and the ones that are trendy right now are mostly structured crop tops and full skirts - a style that I actually think is kind of cute, but not at all right for this fabric.<br />
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I put the fabric aside for a while, and it wasn't until I was browsing through some indie pattern collections that I wasn't familiar with that I had this idea. I found the <a href="http://jamiechristina.com/products/miz-mozelle-dress-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Miz Mozelle dress</a> by Jamie Christina, and loved it! I immediately thought of this fabric, but then I remembered my 2-piece set idea. Then I thought - why not take a dress pattern, and modify it into a 2-piece set? That way, it'll be sure to look like a dress when the pieces are worn together.<br />
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I bought the PDF and taped it together, and cut out a size 2. I'm actually a 4 at the waist and a 6 at the hips, but I figured that the only part that I really needed to fit was the shoulders, since there's plenty of ease everywhere else.<br />
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I thought the dress would be one piece, with an elastic casing at the waist, but it has a top and a skirt that are sewn together, and the elastic is sewn into the seam allowance. This made it really easy to make into two pieces! I lengthened the top by 6" and narrowed it just slightly so that it wouldn't be too bulky when tucked in, and I added 1 1/2" onto the top of the skirt, for an elastic casing. I also raised the keyhole opening by 1/2"<br />
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I started with the blouse, and I had originally planned to use a cream fabric for the collar, and cream bias tape. After sewing the bias tape to the keyhole, though, I realized that it was just too busy, and ripped it out to use black instead. I also decided to use black fabric for the collar, which I think looked better. Since I didn't have very much of the black fabric and I'd already cut out pockets from it, I had to piece the under collar, but it's underneath so you don't see it at all. I did something that I <i>never</i> do and skipped the interfacing, since the contrast fabric was already stiffer than the rayon. It turned out just fine!<br />
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I couldn't find a button I liked, or any cord that would work for the loop to close the keyhole, so instead I used a black wooden bead and made a daisy chain out of some embroidery thread.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLr3YeaH6dcbeSOvDyqhjyI7hse03P-7CvUd2AQ_jdvJB9Kc4LTFgeTLP6q5lufPnQBSzieHkUO91Tp8mWM8D1wobvaLNgl_bdtAJO8oupGBQxLfquodgWyi46CESbU-G4LF-GNO4eH0c/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25288%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLr3YeaH6dcbeSOvDyqhjyI7hse03P-7CvUd2AQ_jdvJB9Kc4LTFgeTLP6q5lufPnQBSzieHkUO91Tp8mWM8D1wobvaLNgl_bdtAJO8oupGBQxLfquodgWyi46CESbU-G4LF-GNO4eH0c/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25288%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I modified the order of construction a little, since I used French seams on all the seams. I don't have access to a serger anymore since leaving home, so I'm experimenting with different seam finishes! I love the look of the French seams, and the rayon is lightweight enough that they worked really well.<br />
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The pattern suggests inserting the sleeves flat, then sewing the side seams, but I thought that a vertical French seam under the arm would be less comfortable, so I sewed them in the round instead. I don't mind setting in sleeves in the round, and I find it makes for a nicer finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtYnNAAqs3WUMpQFDtTt_TSXswG-LKAWbrpCUvNHU3StIuXo5dUCT3xxTpt__CAv_efbOoJcucvZdUnoCSKPPyZRCXmw-_D_lQIwVguvSssjEI04GWJGh93sDQgalZCzA1nycjQlL25U/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252814%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrtYnNAAqs3WUMpQFDtTt_TSXswG-LKAWbrpCUvNHU3StIuXo5dUCT3xxTpt__CAv_efbOoJcucvZdUnoCSKPPyZRCXmw-_D_lQIwVguvSssjEI04GWJGh93sDQgalZCzA1nycjQlL25U/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252814%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I love this method for the collar - I couldn't quite wrap my head around it at first, but once I understood what was going on, I realized how genius it is. You finish the edge with bias tape, with the collar sandwiched in between the top and the bias tape, and then the collar covers the stitching that attaches the bias tape. I finished the edges near the keyhole by hand, where the collar wouldn't quite cover the stitching, for a cleaner finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MQWfyA6olC4POUokKuZcFep8XqUP_b_mgyYBBmhRoORsJIfzXbJuIQSH0ySYRQM_QGF3LrjwrN_JK_vZYaEdlDpO8q7wpPyLuwjfY0uNfeOj7gUm6xKwgd2S8F9I6BWelhFKtH8IYnA/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252816%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MQWfyA6olC4POUokKuZcFep8XqUP_b_mgyYBBmhRoORsJIfzXbJuIQSH0ySYRQM_QGF3LrjwrN_JK_vZYaEdlDpO8q7wpPyLuwjfY0uNfeOj7gUm6xKwgd2S8F9I6BWelhFKtH8IYnA/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252816%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I wanted the blouse to be evenly gathered when tucked in, so that it would look more like a dress. Enter, elastic thread! I sewed five rows of stitching with a bobbin of elastic thread to shirr the waist, which worked really well! It was my first time shirring with elastic thread, but I'll definitely use it again. It took some samples, and I had to play with the bobbin tension on my machine a little, but it was easy after that.<br />
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For the hem, I just turned up 1/4", then 1/2", and hemmed by hand. The stitches are completely invisible in this fabric!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQB-HuFgEnIujYTcvONaDjKvOKA53G8bUDtnT_REUj43VmesW57ECrWSvBPl_F7eq9C0gCNmdFCC9JS86s4PLeD6wd23NNaSS8o6P5hUVDVunOF2yaGnLUMP7HKeR-Flcu5Ze9rTYjihg/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQB-HuFgEnIujYTcvONaDjKvOKA53G8bUDtnT_REUj43VmesW57ECrWSvBPl_F7eq9C0gCNmdFCC9JS86s4PLeD6wd23NNaSS8o6P5hUVDVunOF2yaGnLUMP7HKeR-Flcu5Ze9rTYjihg/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25286%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Onto the skirt - I added pockets (of course), but I wasn't quite sure how to make them work with French seams. <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2013/07/in-seam-pockets-with-french-seams-sewing-with-deborah-moebes-2/" target="_blank">This tutorial</a> helped a lot! I love how they turned out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKUHgTZrY-kxyV0gZiZ1E2oQqPBNX2ggMp6-mpgeqrjcEOeZWg8Zy0EVyIwnWkVMd4Pd2IZFHTgviEmswohwsEwX0zbsHo4qgaBJXuZ6o5AbA_B3Ni9q1uSqD5e7rh1ugknh7tPFX13k/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252810%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKUHgTZrY-kxyV0gZiZ1E2oQqPBNX2ggMp6-mpgeqrjcEOeZWg8Zy0EVyIwnWkVMd4Pd2IZFHTgviEmswohwsEwX0zbsHo4qgaBJXuZ6o5AbA_B3Ni9q1uSqD5e7rh1ugknh7tPFX13k/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252810%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used a modified version of the pockets from the <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/cambie-dress/" target="_blank">Cambie dress</a>, which I extended so that I could sew them into the seam that made the casing, for stability. I used the same black fabric as I did for the collar, because I thought pockets from the rayon might be too flimsy and delicate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZfhqohjhKnnaoKPWDjltw4h3sQB2GWkhFK8yT3EStw6qDQMbAykO9O9bU7txfXS9POQDevOuA5JE6a0P6_NpjQ1tvuo-7O8G6aW40Birew2Ke5LjHfLOasOoyh2_LWrJxQrVPmdM5E0/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252811%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZfhqohjhKnnaoKPWDjltw4h3sQB2GWkhFK8yT3EStw6qDQMbAykO9O9bU7txfXS9POQDevOuA5JE6a0P6_NpjQ1tvuo-7O8G6aW40Birew2Ke5LjHfLOasOoyh2_LWrJxQrVPmdM5E0/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%252811%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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To make the casing, I just turned under 1/4", then turned under 1 1/4" and stitched it. I used 1" wide elastic, and just enough length to fit snugly around my waist. For the hem, I did the same as the top - turned under 1/4", then 1/2", and hemmed by hand.<br />
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I'm really, really happy with how these turned out! I love both the top and the skirt, and I think that they really do look like a dress when they're worn together. I could maybe have sewn the shirring a little bit lower, since it pokes out a little from the skirt when it's tucked in. Since the skirt is also gathered at the waist by elastic, I don't think it's super noticeable. If I did something like this again, I might shirr the waist of the skirt before making the casing so that it looks even more seamless.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHprTLwpcckiGgFbeteR2m9zoeqI_YJ_RKF3yeUVh432rD3CtYWj3kGRLPueJ2n7QGpS8i3tXsL7yE3kz9lnJExROiI_UkojNqLLh3mwX391dOxAfBXHMSBaWWwBQYhgZjoBIZdjryxQ/s1600/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHprTLwpcckiGgFbeteR2m9zoeqI_YJ_RKF3yeUVh432rD3CtYWj3kGRLPueJ2n7QGpS8i3tXsL7yE3kz9lnJExROiI_UkojNqLLh3mwX391dOxAfBXHMSBaWWwBQYhgZjoBIZdjryxQ/s640/Miz+Mozelle+Set+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The top is great with jeans, or with a plain black skirt, and the skirt is great with pretty much any solid colour top. I think these pieces will get a lot of wear!<br />
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Thanks for reading!<br />
<br />
UPDATE: This outfit has been chosen as a finalist in the Monthly Stitch's <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/2015/06/18/ipm-2015-separates-let-the-voting-begin/" target="_blank">Separates Contest</a>. There are so really fabulous outfits made for the contest that you should check out, and if you like mine, I'd really appreciate <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/2015/06/18/ipm-2015-separates-let-the-voting-begin/" target="_blank">a vote</a>! Thanks!Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2060049682474615891.post-76639764350475608902015-06-08T19:52:00.000-07:002015-06-10T10:59:03.318-07:00Completed: Muse Natalie Dress<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;">After filling the wardrobe gap of a </span><a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/06/completed-sewaholic-davie-dress-perfect.html" target="_blank">LBD</a>,<span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;"> this is something I’ve wanted to make for ages – a little </span><i style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">red</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;"> dress! I’m always drawn to prints, but I wear solid colours way more often. I’ve already made a few solid colour knit Moneta dresses that I wear </span><i style="background-color: white; border: 0px; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">all </i><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;">the time (</span><a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2014/06/completed-colette-moneta-dress-with-tie.html" target="_blank">here </a><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;">and </span><a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/01/completed-maroon-colette-moneta-dress.html" target="_blank">here</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;">, with a third unblogged), so I knew that this would be a great wardrobe staple for me. Plus, I love red – it seems to work for all seasons and all occasions!</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCVI10HWF-VWY410vJv3TfxaszybUc9mTuurMp-0SX8hWPCFlLVHDnkX0hw3aR6APkudEQ7qglLLlKFk1mPvg4pQqwIOXucYX1x9SqVj0NQBBpfGiB78h2ylMpAVp75gwgiG3QpwF6Cs/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpCVI10HWF-VWY410vJv3TfxaszybUc9mTuurMp-0SX8hWPCFlLVHDnkX0hw3aR6APkudEQ7qglLLlKFk1mPvg4pQqwIOXucYX1x9SqVj0NQBBpfGiB78h2ylMpAVp75gwgiG3QpwF6Cs/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25281%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #555555; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;"><span style="color: #555555;">I’m always super excited when there’s a new knit dress pattern out, especially if it’s by an indie pattern company. So, after making the <a href="http://youngseamstress.blogspot.ca/2015/04/completed-muse-patterns-nathalie-top.html" target="_blank">top version</a> of the <a href="http://sewingmuse.com/products/natalie-dress-and-top" target="_blank">Natalie top and dress</a> by Muse Patterns and loving it, I knew I wanted to make it as a dress.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinrOKH3Q5OAuoR8XMZJn6-LOwiM8H3ISm424npi01Bgn-IRCirW3oh_tiqes291CtvTEqaR7gfUCafYhxTp26WpqeHzbIoMIb56L1sf5STxWYEsdBy47Zdqp8WaKK0JOqxiBj-oAvDDzQ/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinrOKH3Q5OAuoR8XMZJn6-LOwiM8H3ISm424npi01Bgn-IRCirW3oh_tiqes291CtvTEqaR7gfUCafYhxTp26WpqeHzbIoMIb56L1sf5STxWYEsdBy47Zdqp8WaKK0JOqxiBj-oAvDDzQ/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25286%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17.9200000762939px;"><span style="color: #555555;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">I cut out a size 30, as I did for my top, and the only alteration I needed was to shorten it. I shortened the skirt 2″,
and I can’t remember how much I shortened the sleeves but it was an inch or two.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzxaZobkXu2C5Y5hezpU70eYfuII1w7sLhfCe20BWS0Zu5FSHHeTzhxKOvfcGVjOx4vyz4SL2S-3YTXftYWw3niPQ10g5AZANiUXx_AaJtV6y9uOV_EzYPCdkFN_i-kzQ4xbVbeUF5r5E/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25288%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzxaZobkXu2C5Y5hezpU70eYfuII1w7sLhfCe20BWS0Zu5FSHHeTzhxKOvfcGVjOx4vyz4SL2S-3YTXftYWw3niPQ10g5AZANiUXx_AaJtV6y9uOV_EzYPCdkFN_i-kzQ4xbVbeUF5r5E/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25288%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">The fabric is rayon
jersey that I bought from Fabricana in Richmond. It was on sale so I bought
a few metres – I already made a top from it (so far unblogged), and I have enough left for at least another top, possibly another dress.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P1u9xTVAH2mWIA4amoFmnM5f11jO-c2TFXck16yuHC-r5RFoX5ZsceN7zBR8UjWLJsQyZqp6Zlr8myLIztCZfAKkG3iJoZKTuvBnanzhfaykfRrZa7rtzUtpvQ_d5HXGIwwiO9rRBsQ/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%252810%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-P1u9xTVAH2mWIA4amoFmnM5f11jO-c2TFXck16yuHC-r5RFoX5ZsceN7zBR8UjWLJsQyZqp6Zlr8myLIztCZfAKkG3iJoZKTuvBnanzhfaykfRrZa7rtzUtpvQ_d5HXGIwwiO9rRBsQ/s640/Natalie+Dress+%252810%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">Since I’m away from
home again, I don’t have access to my mom’s serger anymore, so this was my
first knit garment made entirely on a regular sewing machine. It went together
more smoothly than I was expecting! The insides don’t look as professional
as they would with a serger, but they’re still quite neat, and my gathering and
my neckline actually look way better than on the version that I made on my
mom’s serger. After sewing the seams with a narrow zigzag, I finished the seam
allowances with a slightly wider zigzag wherever I thought they might
roll. The local sewing store where I’m living for the summer didn’t have any
ballpoint twin needles, so I just hemmed with a single line of narrow zigzag
stitching. I actually quite like it – it’s very subtle, almost invisible in this fabric.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUpdS-zmFlpEQnDVsQLZojZeY0zUNa4t5te_1Vb9qAFQMxgeDeS1sn_ovPAchJRERkS6zd53MRcrLfwX1YZDHu2egygqcS97GjwuJpk7cxIhcIJFBRAOS9gZGcOHTi0FGlHQBOh1S9Gi4/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUpdS-zmFlpEQnDVsQLZojZeY0zUNa4t5te_1Vb9qAFQMxgeDeS1sn_ovPAchJRERkS6zd53MRcrLfwX1YZDHu2egygqcS97GjwuJpk7cxIhcIJFBRAOS9gZGcOHTi0FGlHQBOh1S9Gi4/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25287%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">There’s a bit of
extra fabric bunching up at the back because of my swayback, but I think the
only way to fix this would be to put in some sort of seam or some darts there. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq2fJJ_cmhl9w2e6uBNPjmUceQ3SDnYoOHXjZqaxBRR_cwHviYjr0rClvoS-voJ3WS6iVHOxjusDUt5ug1NtK9uaZPf_y_H97TmLZq_QNH5I6r-_UX54wQ_rEnzdzQKFearIp_QfSGhgA/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq2fJJ_cmhl9w2e6uBNPjmUceQ3SDnYoOHXjZqaxBRR_cwHviYjr0rClvoS-voJ3WS6iVHOxjusDUt5ug1NtK9uaZPf_y_H97TmLZq_QNH5I6r-_UX54wQ_rEnzdzQKFearIp_QfSGhgA/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25283%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">The only changes that I would make next time is to make the skirt a little more
flared, to make it more bike-friendly (which might also solve the problem
of the bunching in the back), and to add pockets! I usually add pockets to
everything, but I completely forgot with this dress. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtfucN7QmmxsT22AcprRhOPIRxJ4d-2UbCLJNszeN3m3sEtdKk5DErcmkODvwxLYbsTSrKKXDaE_hgzU7Jtu49ijKJaAdkjdpzd4oH6OAnrgo5yN0qgk2XtGiArsNtFfDZ657fh5WIn4/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtfucN7QmmxsT22AcprRhOPIRxJ4d-2UbCLJNszeN3m3sEtdKk5DErcmkODvwxLYbsTSrKKXDaE_hgzU7Jtu49ijKJaAdkjdpzd4oH6OAnrgo5yN0qgk2XtGiArsNtFfDZ657fh5WIn4/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25284%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #555555; font-family: inherit, serif;">Overall, I’m very happy with it!
It’s very flattering and a nice change from the Moneta, which I’ve made lots of
already. I’ve been really impressed with all the Muse Patterns that I’ve tried
– the instructions and the drafting are great, and I really love the styles. I
think I might try t</span><span style="font-family: inherit, serif;">he <span style="border-image-outset: initial; border-image-repeat: initial; border-image-slice: initial; border-image-source: initial; border-image-width: initial; border: 1pt none windowtext; padding: 0cm; text-decoration: none;"><a href="http://sewingmuse.com/products/gillian-wrap-dress" target="_blank">Gillian wrap dress</a></span> next!</span><span style="color: #555555; font-size: 13.5pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DZ4zBD72vOkMZLhKrKS59d_hnU5cOV8b-rleuQyZFk_K1obphHWCCEWtQgHnLw-b3RCL-TCZm7ixKj7AbMSTNZUF2p2sQVySsQpEVE1_mgQMFuzKXcghG8njmVJ-gr7WBoWb_LhiV1Y/s1600/Natalie+Dress+%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8DZ4zBD72vOkMZLhKrKS59d_hnU5cOV8b-rleuQyZFk_K1obphHWCCEWtQgHnLw-b3RCL-TCZm7ixKj7AbMSTNZUF2p2sQVySsQpEVE1_mgQMFuzKXcghG8njmVJ-gr7WBoWb_LhiV1Y/s640/Natalie+Dress+%25285%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit, serif;">Incidentally, after resorting to mirror selfies for the last week or so of Me-Made-May, I knew I would need to find a better way to take photos while I'm living on my own. I could ask a co-worker to take photos, but I'm quite picky about my photos and take lots of them, so I don't like asking people to take them for me until I know them well. I'm rather proud of my solution:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsuk9zzDPAkahNHZGXiqn5xxPfuzCeqaoWCZmPUgMIfnVuLYrSpEf9sEGrA1Tx5hsFZ8jB29utk-tn8LVopUZNk9YJb6tK60stvL-0LmhQ2H7nQe9JCrmBDpERBQPdHvQvtuOjxkdppA/s1600/20150602_111647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsuk9zzDPAkahNHZGXiqn5xxPfuzCeqaoWCZmPUgMIfnVuLYrSpEf9sEGrA1Tx5hsFZ8jB29utk-tn8LVopUZNk9YJb6tK60stvL-0LmhQ2H7nQe9JCrmBDpERBQPdHvQvtuOjxkdppA/s640/20150602_111647.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit, serif;">It's a holder for my phone made out of duct tape, that I taped onto the railing of the porch at my uncle's condo where I'm staying! I use a timer with it, and managed to get some pretty clear photos. Although the background isn't that pretty, the lighting is good, and my phone can take decent photos so long as there's good light (inside, like for the flat shots, they get a bit grainy). They've also just replaced the wood on the porch but haven't painted it yet, so I don't have to worry about peeling off the paint with the tape. I wish I had figured this out for Me-Made-May!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit, serif;">UPDATE: This dress was picked as one of 15 finalists in the <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/2015/06/01/let-the-dresses-contest-begin-june-1st-7th/" target="_blank">Indie Pattern Month Dresses Contest</a> over at <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">The Monthly Stitch</a>. If you like the dress, I'd really appreciate it if you head on over and <a href="https://themonthlystitch.wordpress.com/2015/06/10/ipm-2015-dresses-let-the-voting-begin/" target="_blank">vote for me</a>!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit, serif;">Thanks for reading!</span></div>
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<b>Dress:</b> Me-made (<a href="http://sewingmuse.com/products/natalie-dress-and-top" target="_blank">Muse Natalie dress</a>)</div>
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<b>Shoes:</b> Bought second-hand from the McGill Clothing Exchange (Sperry)</div>
Shannonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16870147262612379143noreply@blogger.com9