Completed: Muse Patterns Natalie Top

After loving my Jenna Cardigan by Muse Patterns, I really couldn't wait to try another one of their patterns! This is the Natalie Top and Dress, a pattern for knits with gorgeous 40's-inspired gathering, which I made when I was home for Christmas. 

I promise I'll have some more spring-appropriate stuff on the blog soon! I went home for reading week and made a couple things for spring while I was there, but don't have pictures yet. It definitely feels like the wrong weather to be posting about a black long-sleeved top now, since I've been wearing short sleeves and skirts without tights for the past week here in Montreal! My only complaint is that the gorgeous weather makes it difficult to force yourself to study for exams. Only three more to go...

I chose this pattern kind of spontaneously, because I was planning on using this fabric to make another Bronte top, but then I realized that is was really sheer! I guess I wasn't paying attention when I bought it, because it was expensive for a solid bamboo jersey knit. I bought it from a local fabric store where I bought a remnant of the most amazing bamboo jersey I've ever worked with, and when I saw more bamboo jersey in the store, I assumed it was the same! Turns out it's not - this is much thinner and much flimsier. So disappointing! 

Anyways, I needed a top pattern that was a little more forgiving and didn't have any negative ease over the bust, so that it wouldn't end up too sheer. This was perfect - the gathers meant that it wouldn't be too sheer at all!

I really love the dress variation of this pattern, but since I only had a metre of fabric, I didn't really have a choice. I'll probably make the dress this summer!

I'm not a huge fan of PDF patterns, but this one came together pretty easily and quickly. I cut out a size 30 with long sleeves. Since the Jenna cardigan was a little wide at the shoulders, I took in the shoulder seams by 1/4". I also raised the V-neck by 1", which I reduced to closer to 1/2" or 3/4" when I actually sewed it. I omitted the ties in the back, because as much as I love them, I find them really uncomfortable when you're sitting.

This top took a little big longer than some knit patterns, but still not long at all. You need to interface the triangle in the middle with woven interfacing, and then do all the gathering around the bust and attach it. A note for next time: I sewed one with the gathers on the bottom, and the other side with the gathers on the top, and one side looks way nicer than the other. I just can't remember which! I'll sew some samples before making this again to see. I don't think it's too noticeable though, especially from a distance and in black.

The only thing that I found a little more difficult with this pattern was getting the V-neck to look right! I seem to remember attaching the binding was fine, but the topstitching took me a few tries. It still doesn't look that great, but there's only so many times you can rip out topstitching in jersey before going slightly mad.

I'm really happy with the fit of this top - it's super flattering! In the end, I didn't need to take in the shoulders, and I'll probably add the 1/4" back on next time, but other than that, the fit is great. The triangle in the centre sits a little lower on me than it does in the pictures, but I don't have a problem with that, and I'm not exactly sure of the best way to fix that because of how the pattern pieces go together. I'm happy with it how it is, so I probably won't bother!

Looking at these photos, it does bunch up a little in the back, but I think that's mostly because it's getting caught on the waistband of my jeans, which is too big (I think I need to make myself some Ginger jeans).

Overall, though, this top wasn't my best make, even though the fit is great - mostly because of the fabric. It was so flimsy that it shifted a lot when I was cutting it, and one of my sleeves ended up off grain. I also managed to get a hole in one of the sleeves before I even finished it! I sewed it up and put lots of fray-check on it, and so far it seems to be fine. But seriously...

I also found it really difficult to hem, even with Stitch Witchery, a walking foot, and a twin needle, which is my go-to hemming technique for knits. It stretched out a lot, and ended up a little ripply.

What's a little different about this top from other tops that I've made is that I can't really tuck it in, which I usually do for all my tops. Because of that, I can't really wear it with a skirt, which is too bad. Nonetheless, this top got a lot of wear, especially when it was -20 degrees in Montreal, because I could wear it with jeans and merino base layers underneath - perfect for when I needed a break from all the huge sweaters!

I'll definitely make this pattern again, probably as a dress for summer. I'm really impressed with Muse Patterns - the instructions are great, and the patterns seem to be very well drafted. I also love that their newer patterns come one size smaller than the Jenna cardi did, so I don't have to size down (always a plus!). 

Thanks for reading! You probably won't see much of me until after exams. I have an exciting (but very busy) couple of weeks ahead - in less than two weeks, I'll be done my first week of university, and I'll be moving out my residence and into my first apartment! See you all in (me-made) May!

Top: me-made (Muse Patterns Nathalie Top)
Jeans: Guess

Completed: Charley Harper Print Bronte Top

Can I just start by saying how much I LOVE this fabric? It really makes the top! The print looks like a quilting cotton (which I love), but it's actually the softest most wonderful organic cotton interlock knit. It's a complete DREAM to sew with, and so comfortable to wear. The print is by Charley Harper, and I bought the last of the bolt at Spool of Thread last summer - it was a little pricey for cotton knit (around $20 a metre), but sooooo worth it.

I mean, polka dots and birds. Come on. 

This print makes my day every time I wear it. I didn't exactly have the greatest week - my foot was inexplicably sore and swollen to the point that I missed quite a few classes because it hurt to walk to them, and I was seriously struggling to finish some choreography for my dance group. It didn't help that I had my first midterm this semester on Thursday, and a couple of stressful labs this week. Wednesday was probably the low point - I barely slept because of my foot, I couldn't make it to any of my classes, I wasn't feeling very good about my impending midterm, and I hadn't finished a dance that I was supposed to teach later that evening. 

BUT, I wore this top, and it cheered me up. That's the power of great fabric.

I'm now taking a short, but well-deserved break. My midterm went well, I managed to finish all the assignments that I put off when I was studying for it, and I'm catching up on my missed classes. My foot is feeling much better, and despite whatever was wrong with it, I managed to finish teaching my dance, and I'm really, really happy with it! I'm really enjoying having the chance to do my own choreography - seeing it come together is so satisfying!

Speaking of my dance group, we are in the midst of fundraising to pay for the theatre that we're renting for our spring show! We have to pay a certain amount upfront, and then the rest we pay for with ticket sales. Since we're a new dance company at McGill this year, our funds are pretty limited! We've been busy with bake sales and plenty of other fundraisers, but we've also set up a crowdfunding site for anyone who wants to support us from afar. If you're interested in helping us out, every little bit counts, and I would appreciate it SO much! (You can also check out our YouTube channel for videos from our winter showcase if you want to see the kind of things that we do!)

Anyways, enough about dance and my stressful week - on to this shirt!

This is actually my third version of this pattern, the Bronte Top by Jennifer Lauren. I made two short-sleeved versions last summer and haven't blogged about them yet! (I'm terrible, I know.) I really love the pattern - it fit me quite well right out of the (digital) envelope, and it's so quick and easy to make. The yoke detail stops it from being a boring knit top, though! 

I cut a size 8, like my second version. According to the sizing charts, I'm a size 6, but I found it to be a little tight around the armholes. I don't like my knit tops super snug anyways, so I just sized up, and the fit is pretty near perfect! The only change I made to the fit of this one is that I graded out a little at the hips - I find that my first two tops ride up just slightly. I added on about 2" total at the bottom, and this gives it almost more of a bell shape when it's untucked, because the fabric is pretty sturdy. Although I'll wear it tucked in most of the time, I love the shape of it! I would probably not grade out quite as much if I made it in a drapier fabric, though.

While writing that, I realized that I completely forgot to get pictures of it untucked... you'll have to take my word for it!

I thought that long sleeves would be too overwhelming for this print, but I didn't want short sleeves, so I made 3/4 sleeves by folding up the pattern where two pieces of paper were taped together, and this ended up being the perfect length!

I hesitated about the contrasting binding, because I thought it might be too much, but I'm glad I went for it - I really love it! It was just some cream-coloured bamboo jersey that I had in my stash - the same stuff I use to line my Moneta dresses. It really highlights the style lines!

Since I've made this before, it came together really quickly. I won't go much into detail about the construction, since it's pretty much the same as my other knit tops and dresses - I sewed all the seams on my serger, and I hemmed using a twin needle and Stitch Witchery. Like with my previous two versions, I took a 1 1/2" hem, turned up once, rather than a 3/4" hem turned up twice. I just used a simple straight stitch for the topstitching, which is what I did on my other two, and I haven't had any problems with broken stitches. 

That's about it for this top! It's a pretty simple make, but the fabric is fantastic, so it's probably one of my favourite me-made tops ever. I got an email a while back from Spool of Thread saying that they have more Charlie Harper knits in stock - I might try to pick some up (if there are any left) when I'm home for reading week!

By the way, I also made the pants I'm wearing in these photos! They are another project I finished last summer, but haven't had a chance to blog about yet. They were my last project before leaving for Montreal, so I never managed to get photos of them until I visited home for Christmas. They should be up on the blog soon!

Thanks for reading!

Top: Me-made (Jennifer Lauren Bronte Top)
Pants: Me-made (soon to be blogged)
Belt: bought from a craft market

Completed: Cowl Neck Renfrew Top

I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to make Sewaholic’s Renfrew Top! I’ve seen countless versions of this top on various blogs, and I’ve been really happy with all the other Sewaholic patterns that I've tried! When I went to the Sewtionary launch party during the summer, there was 25% off all Sewaholic patterns if you were wearing something made from one. I wore my refashioned muumuu Pendrell blouse and my denim Hollyburn skirt, and picked up the Renfrew pattern!

The pattern calls for a medium-weight knit, so I chose this royal blue organic cotton and bamboo double knit that I bought at Dressew (of all places! It really wasn’t where I was expecting to find organic cotton). Compared to Montreal, it was a little pricey at $15 a metre, but I got this top out of under 1.5 metres, so I’m not complaining.

I chose view C, the cowl neck variation, with the long sleeves from view A. I cut a straight size 0, which usually fits me pretty well in Sewaholic patterns.

From cutting to hemming, I finished this top in an evening! The instructions were well-written but brief, as is usual for Sewaholic patterns. I didn’t follow the instructions too closely, since I’m pretty familiar with how to put together a knit top, although I did noticed that the instructions say to sew the cowl with the wrong sides together. The picture, however, shows it with the right sides together, which is the correct way. It’s not a new pattern so I was a little surprised to find a mistake in the instructions, but I might have just bought an older version that hadn’t been corrected yet.

I wasn’t sure if I had any ¼” twill tape to reinforce the shoulders, so instead I used ¼” clear elastic, which I bought lots of for Moneta dresses but don’t use anymore since I prefer the 3/8” stuff.

I sewed all the seams on my serger, and my regular machine seems to have recovered and did a nice job on the topstitching around the cowl. I used a straight stitch rather than the recommended zigzag, because I find that it actually had enough stretch when it’s topstitching a seam that’s already been serged – I used a straight stitch for all the topstitching on my Bronte tops and haven’t had any problems with broken stitches.

Since I tuck in most of my tops, I wanted a less bulky finish at the bottom, so I hemmed it instead of using the band. I didn’t add any length; I simply omitted the band and the length was perfect. I finished the edge with my serger, turned up 1”, pressed with Stich Witchery, and hemmed with a twin needle. Unfortunately, I didn’t use a walking foot so my hem is a little ripply, but since this will usually be tucked in, I’m not too concerned.

I originally hemmed the sleeves this way as well, but I found that they were just a touch too short, and a little too wide, so I cut off the hem and added the cuffs a couple days later. I like them better, I think!

The fit on this is pretty good, but not perfect. I need to take in the shoulder seams about ½”, maybe more, and if I make a version without the cowl, I’ll need to take in the neckline a little since it’s pretty wide. I’ve seen some people recommend making it a size down since the fit is roomy, but I was already making the smallest size and I didn’t really want to size it down. I think I’m reasonably happy with the fit, though! It’s really comfortable and still looks good tucked it – I actually prefer my shirts to be a little blousy at the waist, otherwise they ride up and get wrinkly.

If I wear it untucked, though, there's some pooling of fabric at the lower back. I might look into doing a swayback adjustment for next time.

I will definitely be making this again! I can see why it's such a popular pattern - it goes together so quickly, and I think I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. I just wish I had enough of the wool I bought it Montreal to make a wool cowl neck version, but the cowl takes up a fair bit of fabric, so I don’t think I do. I’m also planning a Renfrew-Moneta hack to make a cowl neck dress - I just love the cowl neck!

Top: Me-made (Sewaholic Renfrew)
Skirt: Not sure of the brand, refashioned from a dress to a skirt
Belt: Bought at a craft market
Tights: Smartwool
Boots: Steve Madden

Completed: Sewaholic Pendrell Blouse, Knit Version

Confession time: I actually finished this two weeks ago. I've been meaning to take photos every day since then, but other stuff has just been popping up. You know, homework, rain, dance, procrastination. Actually, the rain just started yesterday. We had a little bit of a heat wave last week. It went up to 31 degrees the other day! (Everyone in the US reading this is probably thinking, what?!? 31 degrees? That's hot? I know how it is. I do a double take when someone says that the temperature dropped to 50, or that it was  90 the other day. I don't think in Fahrenheit. Water doesn't freeze at 32 degrees. It just doesn't.) Anyways, it was nice to get a little more wear out of my summer clothes.

This is my third Pendrell blouse, and, like my culottes, was a bit of an experiment. I had some red polka dot bamboo jersey lying around that my mom bought a while back, and I wanted to make it into a top, but didn't really have a good pattern for knit tops.

I believe my mom was planning to make this into a second camisole for me, after self-drafting one last year. Even though I wear the cami a lot, I've decided that camis don't work so well for my body type. I need them to give enough coverage in the front, and yet sit below my shoulder blades in the back... which doesn't seem to work. Even though we fitted the cami to be like that, gravity does its thing and the neckline sinks lower and the back rides up. Sigh.

I was actually planning to make the Maria Denmark Day to Night Drape Top with this, since I have a black polka dot shirt that's quite similar to this pattern and gets quite a bit of wear. But... I kind of forgot about that until halfway through making this. Oops. I had a fair chunk of time to spend sewing, I was not in a mood to finish my culottes, I saw this fabric just sitting there, and this seemed like a good idea at the time.

Now, this top is designed for drapey wovens. It has no zipper and is therefore very blousey - which I love, but I find that it really needs to be tucked in to be the most flattering. Since I wanted this to be a casual piece for layering, I thought I would probably be wearing it untucked with cardigans, and therefore wanted it to fit nice and snugly. I couldn't exactly size down since I make a straight size 0 in Sewaholic patterns, so I just took generous seam allowances (1", to be exact). And yes, I realize that princess seams are unnecessary for knits, especially jersey knits with as much stretch as this one, but it was the best pattern I had and I wasn't feeling up to self-drafting something. 

I'm still kind of astounded that I managed to cut this out without sacrificing anything, and I'm still not entirely sure how I managed it. I somehow was able to squeeze it out of 0.6 metres of fabric instead of the recommended 1.8. A big part of it was not cutting the neck and armhole binding on the bias, being a knit. I also shortened it by 2", just like in my other versions. Still, I don't think I've ever had such an efficient layout - when I was all done, I barely had enough left over to try some sample seams. I was planning to make the sleeveless version as an alternative to a cami, but realised there was a little empty square that I might just be able to squeeze some sleeves out of. The Pendrell cap sleeves for view B didn't fit, but my pattern pieces for the Alma blouse just happened to be sitting on my cutting table waiting for a FBA. Looking through the pieces, I realized that the cap sleeves for view A would just fit into that little empty square. I had no idea if they would be compatible with the pattern, but figured it was worth a try.

They did end up working out nicely, although since I couldn't line up notches, they are a teensy bit uneven, but I don't think it's very noticeable. I only noticed this yesterday, when I took the photos of it flat. I also think I gathered them a little bit more than on the original pattern, again, because I didn't have notches to match them to. Overall, though, I really love them! They have a different look in a knit, but I think they really suit the polka dots. They are cute and very flattering, as opposed to the plain cap sleeves that are usually found on knit tops. I think that I'll get a little more wear out of this with sleeves, because it just feels a little more complete. Without, I think it would feel like I would need to wear a cardigan with it. I still can because the sleeves aren't bulky, which makes this a pretty versatile piece. 

I must say, even though I've made this twice already (past versions will probably be blogged about at some point), I struggled with this version. It should have been fast and easy, but it most definitely wasn't. Why? It's a knit. I really, really hate sewing with knits, and especially jersey knits with quite a bit of spandex (I don't know the exact fiber content, but this is suuuper stretchy. I would hazard a guess at 8-10% spandex. It's stretchier than a knit rayon top I have that is 8%, anyways). 

On a bit of a side note, when I was younger I sewed almost exclusively with knits, because I had some weird idea in my head that they were easier to sew with than nice, stable wovens. I have no idea why. All that time, I thought sewing was a lot more difficult than it actually is, because I only sewed with knits. Now, I sew pretty much exclusively with wovens.

The seams themselves weren't too bad, I just used a slight zig-zag and serged the edges, but the topstitching for the neck and armhole binding drove me crazy. I used a double needle because I think it looks nicer than a zig-zag, but it took me lots of tries (and quite a bit of unpicking) to finally get it perfect good enough. It still puckers a little bit in a few places, where the second needle didn't catch the binding underneath. This probably wasn't the best way to finish the neck, but I wanted this to be a quick project, so I just went for it. Isn't it funny how so often the things we do to make things "faster" end up taking so much time?

It's definitely not my best handiwork (the above picture it one of the better parts), but I'm still pretty happy with it. It fits, in comfortable, and it's very wearable. I have to admit that even though anything I sew that's knit is never particularly well-made, they still get quite a bit of wear. 

One thing I noticed about this top after I finished was that it's actually really bright! I know what you're thinking. Of course it's bright. Duh. It just seems brighter now that it's a top, oddly enough. It didn't look quite that bright when it was just fabric. I still really like it, especially with a cardigan to tone done the brightness a little bit.

I, of course, styled it with a skirt for these photos, and then realised that I would be wearing it far more often with jeans and a cardigan, so I changed and took some photos like that too.

It can be dressed up or down pretty easily. When I added the bolero/blazer (it's kind of a combination of the two, so I call it both, depending on how I feel), it reminded me of the outfits I would wear for band concerts back when my band teacher said that girls had to wear all black, but guys could wear whatever colour dress shirt they liked. A bunch of the girls in band decided that this was completely unfair, and wore coloured shirts anyways. Shortly thereafter, he gave up telling the girls they had to wear all black.

I think I bumped the tripod, so I cut off my feet in this photo... but you get the idea.

I do really love this pattern, even though it's not really the same pattern after taking so much out of the seams and changing the sleeves. As I mentioned before, I've made two of these already and love them both. Also, the skirt I'm wearing in these photos is the Sewaholic Hollyburn. Can anyone tell I like Sewaholic patterns?

Shirt: Sewaholic Pendrell
Skirt: Sewaholic Hollyburn
Heels: Chelsea Crew
Tights: Hue
Bolero/blazer: Mom-made, a heavily modified Vogue V8673 (now out of print, I believe)

Jeans: Consignment, CJ by Cookie Johnson
Cardigan: Thrifted
Boots: Steve Maddden